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Palermo

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Palermo
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Palermo Travel Guide

  • About Palermo
Invaded by Arabs, Normans and Byzantines, Palermo is a thrilling jumble of architectural styles – a city that seems to alter with every turn. Arab domes merge into Norman cathedrals while 19th-century theatres square up to imposing baroque churches. This is a city blessed with a rich past, but full of the bustle of the modern age, not to mention a terrific nightlife in glorious, crumbling piazzas.Strolling the Sicilian capital, there’s treasure to be found on every street. Don’t miss the sumptuous Palazzo dei Normanni (Palace of the Normans), glittering with mosaics. In La Kalsa, the old medieval quarter, washing is still strung between the narrow streets. Elsewhere, elegant residential districts with palm trees and palatial villas can be found, and although motorcycles plague its busy streets, Palermo’s noisy, chaotic atmosphere is part of its charm.Aside from the quaint churches, grisly catacombs and lively markets, both beaches and hilly countryside are within easy reach of Palermo. Stunning architecture can be found in the little satellite towns of Monreale and Cefalù, both with their own Byzantine mosaics and churches. The island of Sicily is not huge, so it’s easy to make longer trips using Palermo as a base. It takes less than four hours to cross its length, from west to east.Palermo’s rich multicultural past is evident in its gastronomy. Arab-influenced dishes include the zesty lemon granita drink, crumbly almond pastries and spicy fish couscous. Try panelle (fritters made from chickpea flour) or calzoni (deep-fried dough pockets with savoury fillings) at street stalls all over the city. Gastronomic adventurers may be tempted by the local delicacy known as babalucci – baby snails marinated in parsley, olive oil and garlic.As has been dramatised in Hollywood and elsewhere, Sicily was long in the grip of the Mafia (Cosa Nostra). Although the city is full of beautiful monuments, many historic buildings were destroyed in the post-war years due to unregulated construction. Today, there are still problems with corruption and organised crime, but Palermo’s sun-drenched streets, glorious ruins and natural splendours are now the symbols of the city, not the mob.
  • Palermo History
There is evidence of prehistoric settlements in the Palermo area, which mark the beginning of its long history. This is one of the most conquered cities in the world, with the Phoenicians arriving first, then the Greeks, before the Romans came during the Punic Wars with the Carthaginians.After the fall of the old Roman Empire, the Byzantine descendants of the Eastern Roman Empire seized the city, holding it from the 6th century until 831. Then the Saracens arrived, turning Sicily into an Arab Emirate. The city flourished under the largely tolerant Arabs, becoming immensely rich, and the capital of the island, with its importance recognised from Europe to Africa.The next wave of invaders to come was the Normans in the 11th century, who took control of the entire island. Sicily achieved its height under Roger II, who encouraged the Sicilian arts and economy. The potent cocktail of Norman and Arab culture created a unique architectural style.Over the next two centuries, Palermo and the Kingdom of Sicily passed to the Holy Roman Empire, then Charles I of Anjou, the Aragonese, and finally ended up in the hands of the Spanish. By the 18th century, Sicily had been united with the Kingdom of Naples, finally rebelling during the revolutions of 1848. It was then annexed to Italy in 1860.In the 20th century, during the Allied invasion of Sicily, the city suffered devastating damage, particularly around the port and surrounding areas. After WWII, Palermo became an autonomous region but the state had to share effective control of the city with the rising power of the Mafia. Well-publicised murders as well as uncontrolled urban expansion led to bad traffic problems, widespread poverty and a historic centre still partly in ruins.More recently, the city has loosened the grip of Cosa Nostra, and is developing into a business and cultural hub. There is also increasing tourism from visitors interested in its rich legacy, faded grandeur and labyrinthine-like streets.
  • Did you know?
It is said that more than 300 mosques were built during Palermo’s Islamic period, but it was a tolerant society as Christian and Jews were permitted to follow their own faiths too. At the time of the unification of Italy in the 19th century, Italian was not spoken in Palermo. The Sicilian language suffered an assault from central government in the following decades, but is still regarded by many linguists as a separate language. Under Mussolini and fascism, the Mafia was crushed and many mobsters left for the US. It was during WWII, amidst the chaos of the Allied invasion, that they rose again, and undertook the rampant and unregulated rebuilding of the city from 1950s onwards.
  • Weather in Palermo
Temperatures in Palermo rarely drop below 15°C (59°F). Summer (July to September) is the most popular time to visit, bringing the hottest temperatures of around 30°C (86°F). Winter (December to February) is relatively mild, with temperatures typically dropping to just 12°C (54°F) but rain is abundant in January. However, the first two months of the year are the best time for skiers to head to Mount Etna. Spring and autumn bring pleasant temperatures and is a less crowded time to visit Palermo.

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