Zurich Travel Guide
Zurich labours under the misconception that it is nothing more than a sterile banking city – don’t believe a word of it. It may be home to one of the world’s largest stock exchanges and Switzerland’s financial motor, but step back from the share prices and you’ll find a vibrant, trend-conscious city.Hang with the hip in Zurich West for a while. Its former warehouses and viaducts are now art centres, bars and quirky boutiques. Along Langstrasse, the city’s notorious red light district, you’re just as likely to take home a designer handbag as you are a piece of skirt.Zurich’s character booms from the speakers of the annual Street Parade, a mammoth techno festival that weaves through the city with DJs and dancers. There isn’t a banker’s tie in sight.If there are in the east bank quarter of Niederdorf, they’re loosened. These medieval streets are abuzz with cafés on corners, trendy taprooms and world-class restaurants. It’s easy to lose an afternoon absorbing its laidback atmosphere, especially in summer when the riverside adopts a beach vibe.Winter is special too. Under the spell of snow, the cobbled alleyways, fountains and stunning architecture of the Old Town were made for the stroke of an artist’s brush.Shoppers will love Zurich all year round, especially in the upmarket boutiques of Bahnhofstrasse, the city’s main shopping drag. But this is no longer a city for the smart set alone; there are plenty of unusual shops to be discovered down hidden streets.Sitting astride the River Limmat and the northern tip of Lake Zurich, Mother Nature smiles down on Switzerland’s biggest city. Architects were courteous in their additions too – just check out the Fraumünster and Grossmünster churches, which face each other across the river.Then, when you’ve had enough of the city’s diverse array of restaurants, first-rate museums and pulsing nightlife, there’s always the nearby Uetliberg mountain or a boat trip on Lake Zurich to enjoy – if only to catch your breath before diving back into the city’s delights again.
Zurich’s origins date back to 15BC, when the Roman town of Turicum was established to oversee trade passing through the Alps. Despite the settlement being continuously inhabited, it wasn’t until the 9th century that the first mention of the Teutonic town of Zurich appeared.Ruled by a grandson of Emperor Charlemagne (known as Louis the German), it swiftly expanded and gained a reputation for creating peerless ecclesiastical buildings in the process.By the 10th century, the town had acquired the status of a city, and went on to become part of the Holy Roman Empire in 1215. While an imperial city, it was turned into a Duchy, although, unusually, it was ruled by the local Fraumünster (an abbess) who assumed similar powers to a Duchess.But when the Swiss Protestant Reformation arrived in the 16th century, ecclesiastical rule came to an end – as did most Catholic worship. Instead, Catholicism was swapped for a new religion, trade, with the city becoming increasingly wealthy as part of the Swiss Confederacy. By the 18th century, Zurich became so devoted to trade that it was all but ruled by its guilds. They had the power to levy taxes, among other things.With the French invasion of 1798, the power of the Burghers came to an end, and power was first taken by Napoleon and then by citizens following the French withdrawal. Burghers or no burghers, the city flourished, expanding rapidly during the 19th and 20th centuries.Although both World Wars largely passed it by (in no small part due to Switzerland’s much vaunted neutrality), Zurich did change substantially during the first half of the 20th century.Much of this was due to further expansion to include many of its surrounding villages but also because of a boom in the banking industry. Today, Zurich remains a financial and banking hub as well as one of Europe’s wealthiest cities.
Influential German-language writer Gottfried Keller was a resident of Zurich.
The Reformation in Zurich was inspired by the 1522 ‘Affair of the Sausages’ in which the pastor of Grossmünster argued in favour of meat consumption during Lent.
Psychiatrist Carl Jung lived and died in Zurich.
Zurich enjoys a relatively typical continental climate, with
summers (June to August) seeing average temperatures knock the mercury higher than 21˚C (70˚F). Visiting during this period also gives tourists the chance to swim in Lake Zurich or the Limmat.Temperatures drop significantly over
winter, but thanks to the city’s arts scene and slew of major visitor attractions, Zurich can be enjoyed year-round. The Christmas markets are always a big draw.
Things to see in Zurich
Attractions
At 871m (2,858 ft), Zurich’s nearest mini-mountain, the Uetliberg, is where the city’s residents go to get away from it all. Its peak is easily accessible by train from Zurich main station, on Europe’s steepest normal-gauge railway, but more energetic visitors may prefer to make the hour’s walk up to the summit. The mountain offers impressive views of the city and Lake Zurich, and there are plenty of outdoor activities available too, including mountain biking, paragliding and hiking as well as sledding in winter. In spring, the mountain blooms with wild flowers, while in autumn the summit rises above the fog that often blankets the city below. There are also several restaurants offering Swiss specialities.
Address: Uetliberg, , Zurich.
Telephone: +41 44 457 6666
Opening times: Daily, year-round.
Website: www.uetliberg.ch
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
The twin towers of this attractive cathedral have become something of a symbol for the city, while the building itself comprises a vast set of design influences, from an 11th-century crypt to a stained glass window by avant-garde artist Sigmar Polke. The cathedral played an integral role in the Protestant Reformation, and the movement’s legacy accounts for the relatively unostentatious interior. Recent archaeological discoveries suggest the existence of a Roman cemetery underneath the church. There are also remains of a Romanesque cloister, 12th-century statuary and a stained glass work in the choir by Augusto Giacometti (Alberto’s cousin). The Karlsturm tower has 187 steps; there is no lift.
Address: Old Town, Grossmünsterplatz, Zurich.
Telephone: +41 44 250 6650
Opening times: Mon-Sat 10:00-18:00, Sun 12:00-18:00.
Website: www.grossmuenster.ch
Admission Fees: Yes, for the tower.
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
The collection of the Rietberg Museum of Non-European Art is fully dedicated to non-European cultures and stands as one of the city’s most absorbing attractions. The museum is housed within two buildings dating from the 1850s, both of which are set within the centrally located Rieterpark. The Villa Wesendonck has special exhibitions in addition to its collection of Indian, Chinese and African art (the core of which is the sculpture collection donated by Baron Eduard von der Heydt), while the Park-Villa Rieter has a diverse display of paintings from China, Japan and India. The latter also holds occasional world music concerts.
Address: Enge, Gablerstrasse 15, Zurich.
Telephone: +41 44 415 3131
Opening times: Tues-Sun 10:00-17:00.
Website: www.rietberg.ch
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
Although this beautiful church dates from the ninth century (when it started life as a Benedictine abbey), it is often the five 20th-century stained-glass windows in the choir by Marc Chagall (1970) that attract visitors – the works are best seen in the morning light. The current church dates from the 13th century, although the undercroft contains the original abbey crypt. The elegant spire dates from 1732, although the rest of the church is predominantly gothic. The site was originally endowed by Charlemagne’s grandson, and later became the church of the Zurich Noblewomen’s Convent. The stained-glass windows in the north transept are by Alberto Giacometti’s cousin, Augusto.
Address: Old Town, Münsterhof 2, Zurich.
Telephone: +41 44 211 4100
Opening times: Daily 10:00-18:00.
Website: www.fraumuenster.ch
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
- Schweizerisches Landesmuseum (Swiss National Museum)
The Swiss National Museum lies on a landscaped triangle of parkland between the Hauptbahnhof and the Limmat and Sihl rivers, and has fulfilled the role of the nation’s attic for over a century. The complex actually comprises of three separate museums – the National Museum Zurich, the Castle of Pragins and the Forum of Swiss History Schwyz. Exhibits cover a solid range of different subjects relating to Swiss culture, history, religion and society. It is not only paintings and sculptures but also weapons, flags, watches, clocks, tools, toys and Roman-era objects.
Address: Central, Museumstrasse 2, Zurich.
Telephone: +41 44 218 6511
Opening times: Tues-Sun 10:00-17:00.
Website: www.nationalmuseum.ch
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
- Kunsthaus Zürich (Zurich Art Gallery)
This is the city’s most important fine art gallery, boasting a collection of paintings and sculptures by Swiss and international masters, covering most periods from medieval times but focusing largely on the 19th and 20th centuries. Two of Monet’s ‘Water Lilies’ paintings and the largest collection of Edvard Munch’s works outside of Norway can be found here, as well as expressionist pieces by Kokoschka, Beckmann and Corinth. Pieces by the Dadaists (who, of course, came into being in Zurich) and the world’s most important collection of work by Alberto Giacometti are highlights. The museum also stages a succession of interesting temporary exhibitions. Tours are available in English if reserved beforehand.
Address: Old Town, Heimplatz 1, Zurich.
Telephone: +41 44 253 8484
Opening times: Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00.
Website: www.kunsthaus.ch
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
- Botanischer Garten (Botanical Gardens)
Zurich University’s Botanical Gardens, notable for their large, igloo-like biodomes, make for a wonderful place to get away from it all. Some 9,000 plant species over a 53,000 sq m (173 885 sq ft) area make up the university’s botanical collection, representing a number of different ecosystems from tropical rainforests to alpine meadow flowers. Most of the plants cultivated are wild species, which sets it apart from the standard traditions of central European botany. Given the diversity of the species on show, there’s always something in flower, bearing fruit or displaying richly coloured leaves, making this an attractive outing at any time of year. Don’t miss the frog pond, either.
Address: University, Zollikerstrasse 107, Zurich.
Telephone: +41 44 634 8461
Opening times: Daily 07:00-19:00.
Website: www.bg.uzh.ch
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
The open, park-like enclosures of Zurich Zoo house some 1,500 animals in areas that replicate the animals’ natural environments. Some of the zoo’s most popular residents, particularly apes, seals and penguins, draw crowds during feeding times, while its rarer inhabitants include snow leopards and Andean bears. One particular complex duplicates Madagascar’s Masoala rainforest, while a newly opened elephant park aims to recreate the conditions its residents would find in the wild. The zoo prides itself on its breeding programme, and at any one time there are pups and young animals to observe, varying from anteaters to orangutans. There are also several restaurants at the zoo.
Address: Chlosterli, Zürichbergstrasse 221, Zurich.
Telephone: +41 44 254 2500
Opening times: Daily 09:00-18:00.
Website: www.zoo.ch
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
- Bruno Weber Sculpture Park
This mythical sculpture park in Dietikon, some 40 minutes outside of Zurich, was created by late Swiss artist and architect Bruno Weber in the grounds of his home. A walk through the gardens uncovers giant snakes, birds, spiders and fantasy creatures such as dragons and unicorns, all created out of colourful mosaics. The style is not unlike Catalan artist Gaudí, whom Weber was said to consider his spiritual father’. Popular with families and school groups, the park also makes for a great day trip from Zurich for adults with a vivid imagination and a love of fantastic realism.
Address: Zur Weinrebe, Dietikon.
Telephone: +41 79 535 8587
Opening times: Weds and Sat-Sun 11:00-18:00.
Website: www.weberpark.ch
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
- Zürcher Spielzeugmuseum (Zurich Toy Museum)
This quirky little museum houses a colourful assortment of toys from the 18th to 20th centuries, but should be seen as far more than just a collection of playthings. The exhibits, ranging from railway sets and dolls to tin figurines and board games, give valuable insight into the fashions, domestic life and industry of the periods during which they were created, while a series of special exhibitions unearth additional treasures to complement the permanent collection. The venue’s location in the heart of the Old Town gives it a suitably historical feel. Opening hours are limited though, so time your visit in advance.
Address: Altstetterstrasse 127, Zürich.
Telephone: +41 792 801 881
Opening times: Mon-Fri 14:00-17:00, Sat 13:00-16:00.
Website: www.zuercher-spielzeugmuseum.ch
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
- Migros Museum für Gegenwartskunst (Museum of Contemporary Art)
In the 1950s, Gottlieg Duttweiler (the founder of ubiquitous Swiss supermarket Migros), started collecting modern art. Set up in 1996, this museum is devoted to exhibiting his collection and building upon it. There are core works by Swiss and German contemporary artists, many from the 1990s. These stand alongside spaces dedicated to rotating exhibitions and special installations. There are both solo and group exhibitions, and the museum grants free admission on Thursday evenings from 1700 onwards. It’s worth a visit for the building alone – located in the regenerated Escher-Wyss area in Zurich West, the museum is housed in a former Löwenbrau brewery.
Address: Escher-Wyss, Limmatstrasse 270, Zurich.
Telephone: +41 44 277 2050
Opening times: Tues-Sun 11:00-18:00.
Website: www.migrosmuseum.ch
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
Tourist Offices
Address: Central, Zurich Main Railway Station, Zurich.
Telephone: +41 44 215 4000
Opening times: Daily 08:30-19:00.
Website: www.zuerich.comBook guided city walks, bus tours and boat cruises at the main tourist office, which is conveniently located in the main train station.
Tourist passes
The ZürichCARD, available for 24 or 72 hours, offers unlimited travel within the Zurich canton, free admission to over 40 museums, reduced admission to the zoo and a complimentary welcome drink at over 20 restaurants. You can buy the cards at train stations, many hotels and some of the main VBZ ticket offices around town. There is a full downloadable guide to the
Website: www.zuerich.comThings to do in Zurich
- Cruise around Lake Zurich
Set on the edge of Lake Zurich, there are plenty of opportunities to enjoy the city from the water.
Zurich Navigation Company Telephone: +41 44 487 1333
Website: www.zsg.ch operates cruises on a variety of themes including a fondue cruise. Passengers who disembark at Rapperswil can explore its medieval castle.
- Float across Zurich in a hot-air balloon
There’s no better way to get to grips with Zurich’s impressive setting than taking to the air.
RappiballonTelephone: +41 552 103 975
Website: www.rappiballon.ch based lakeside in Rapperswil, offers scenic hot air balloon flights in all shapes and sizes including (rather appropriately for Switzerland) one fashioned like a cow.
- Have a swim in a landlocked city
Zurich may be landlocked but it boasts some great swimming spots. The ultra-clean River Limmat is popular, whilst the stylish
Frauenbadi Stadthausquai Telephone: +41 442 119 592
Website: www.barfussbar.ch in the Old Town is for women only. For a beach vibe
Mythenquai Lido
Telephone: +41 44 2010 000 even has a sandy stretch.
- Rollerblade through the streets at night
Zurich’s streets make for excellent rollerblading and every other Monday
Night Skate Telephone: +41 79 353 4793
Website: www.nightskate.ch sees hundreds of people blade through the city, starting at Bürkliplatz. Nearby, Greifensee lake is another popular route for in-line skaters. Try
Speed Blade ExperienceWebsite: www.sbx.ch for skate hire.
- Try stand-up paddleboarding under a full moon
Try one of Switzerland’s fastest growing sports on Lake Zurich.
SupSwissTelephone: +41 44 451 9090
Website: www.supswiss.ch as well as equipment hire, teach the basics of stand-up paddleboarding and offer a variety of unusual outings, including a full moon paddle, SUP yoga and a dance paddle during Zurich’s Street Parade.
Zurich tours and excursions
Zurich tours
There are a number of marked trails in the hills surrounding the city that are ideal for strolling or jogging. The promenade along the lakeside is popular with locals and tourists alike. Zurich Tourism organises two-hour tours of the Old Town. Tours usually depart from in front of the tourist information office at the central train station.
Telephone:
+41 44 215 4000
Website: www.zuerich.com
Zurich Tourism is the best source for a variety of bus tours of the city. Tours last up to two-and-a-half hours and many involve a detour into the countryside, giving a chance to take in the picturesque wider surrounds of the canton. Some also include a cablecar or boat trip. Bus tours depart either from in front of the tourist information office or from Zurich-Sihlquai station.
Telephone: +41 44 215 4000
Website: www.zuerich.comZurich excursions
From this breathtaking mountainous location in the Bernese Oberland (often referred to as ‘the top of Europe’) you can see Switzerland’s largest glacier and the spectacular Alpine scenery of this region. The cogwheel mountain train from Lauterbrunnen climbs to the highest railway station in Europe at 3,454m (11,331ft), on the Jungfraujoch. Full-day bus excursions can be booked through the Tourist Information Office – the last part of the journey is by train. The tour runs from the end of April to the end of October. Alternatively, the train journey from Zurich to Jungfraujoch station, with changes at Bern, Interlaken Ost, Lauterbrunnen and Kleine Scheidegg, takes between four-and-a-half and five-and-a-half hours with the Alps gleaming just outside the window.
Telephone:
+41 33 828 7233
Website: www.jungfrau.ch
The canton’s second largest city is 25km (15.5 miles) northeast of Zurich and can be reached in just 20 minutes by train from the Hauptbahnhof. Among its highlights, The Sammlung Oskar Reinhart am Römerholz houses important works from European Old Masters and French Impressionists. The Fotomuseum Winterthur is Europe’s largest photographic arts centre, with regularly changing exhibitions. One of the country’s foremost interactive science museums, Technorama der Schweiz, is also located in Winterthur. In the Winterthur Kunstmuseum, visitors can view major 19th- and 20th-century art. Tempo-drom und Block, Europe’s largest indoor sports park, which includes a rollerpark and beach volleyball court, is a five-minute walk from the main train station.
Telephone:
+41 52 2676 700
Website: www.winterthur-tourismus.chShopping in Zurich
Zurich’s residents enjoy a superb quality of life, and the general affluence means that retail therapy is something of an obsession. Shoppers will find all the latest luxury and international brands, as well as a good number of quirky boutiques and local specialities. The city isn’t necessarily the cheapest shopping destination on the planet, but in terms of what you’ll find on offer, it’s genuinely world-class. It’s a pleasure to shop here too, not least because many of the shopping areas are pedestrianised, well-served by public transport and (as you’d expect in Switzerland) spotlessly clean.
The swish Bahnhofstrasse, extending from the main rail station to Bürkliplatz, houses top luxury designer brands. There are some great little boutiques tucked away to the east too. Rennweg, Limmatquai and the pedestrian alleys of the Niederdorf in the Old Town are good starting points. The old silk-making district of Schipfe has a number of places selling artisan products. More alternative (and cheaper) shops can be found in the newly-fashionable districts of Sihl and Zurich West.
On Saturdays from May to October, Bürkliplatz fills with stalls during the weekly flea market. Interesting antiques and hand-made artefacts are sold at Rosenhof in the Old Town, Thursdays and Saturdays from March to November. Don’t miss the permanent food market at Viaduktstrasse in Zurich West, where around 20 artisan food producers cluster under the railway arches daily.
The city’s largest department store, Jelmoli (Seidengasse 1), stocks a vast range of men and women’s brands and has an extensive food hall, restaurants, terraced bar and tea room. Manor and Grieder are two other good all-rounders, while the main rail station’s shopping centre ShopVille Zürich with 180 stores is ideal for a last-minute dash before departure.
Most shops are open Monday to Friday 09:00 or 09:30-18:30 and Saturday 08:30-16:00 or 17:00. Many, except for the large stores, close for lunch. Late night shopping on Thursday is until 20:00.
Chocolate is the obvious Swiss gift and Zurich has plenty of fine manufacturers including Confiserie Sprüngli on Paradeplatz. Souvenirs also include Swiss Army knives, watches, embroidery, linen and handmade clocks.
Tax informationVAT is charged at a rate of 8% and can be reclaimed for single items purchased for SFr300 or more, as long as the purchaser is resident outside Switzerland and the goods are exported within 30 days.
Zurich Food And Drink
Food In Zurich
- Zurcher geschnetzeltes (Zurich-style sliced veal in gravy)
Traditionally, the dish is prepared with veal, white wine, cream, meat broth and mushrooms. It is served with rösti, grated and then fried potatoes. Preheat oven to 60 degrees.
- Rosti (shredded fried potatoes)
Although basic rösti consists of nothing but potato, a number of additional ingredients are sometimes added, such as bacon, onion, cheese, apple or fresh herbs. This is usually considered to be a regional touch.
- Burli (crusty bread rolls)
The larger rolls known today as Bürli are mostly small loaves of bread made of semi-white or strong white flour, which are particularly common in German-speaking and eastern Switzerland. They have large pores in the crumb and a crispy, often floury crust.
This dish was invented by Swiss mountain shepherds when they gathered around the fire to bake food. The raclette cheese is an easily meltable semi-hard cheese made from cow’s milk. It is produced from pasteurized, thermized or raw milk. The maturation period is approximately 3 months. Raclette cheese made from sheep’s milk is also popular.
The cheese is melted with white wine and served warm in a wide-topped pot known as a caquelon. To eat the fondue, diners dip small cubes of bread on a long-handled fork into the pot. The pot sits over a burner with an adjustable flame level, keeping the cheese warm and melted.
Most commonly, ingredients include pork, beef, or chicken meat along with a variety of assorted vegetables such as carrots, peas, beans (often French beans), potatoes, cauliflower, celery, onions, asparagus, or garlic.
The original Bircher muesli is named after its creator, Maximilian Bircher-Benner, who opened a Swiss sanatorium in 1897. The sanatorium advocated a healthy lifestyle, which included a largely raw diet. Each meal would commence with a small bowl of muesli. In Switzerland, it is also consumed for supper as Birchermüesli complet – muesli with Café complet (milk coffee, accompanied by Butterbrot (bread, butter and jam)). In addition to being prepared raw, muesli can be toasted.
Zuger Kirsch
torte (
Swiss Standard German pronunciation: [ˈtsuːɡər ˈkɪrʃtɔrtə]; lit. ‘cherry torte from Zug’) is a Swiss layer cake that consists of layers of nut-meringue, sponge cake and butter cream, and is flavoured with the cherry brandy kirschwasser.
Zurich has been a city of chocolate since 1845: in that year, the Sprüngli family founded the first chocolate factory in German-speaking Switzerland – and took the world by storm.
Drink In Zurich
Switzerland is known for producing excellent wines, particularly white wines from the Chasselas grape and reds from Pinot Noir and Merlot. The majority of Swiss wines are consumed domestically and only a small percentage is exported.
Drinking coffee after dinner is common. Expect to get an espresso in a teeny tiny cup if you just order a “café.” If you want a latte, it is “renversé” in Switzerland, not “café au lait.” If you want a larger American coffee, order an “Americano.” If you want decaf, order “decafé.”
Some of the more popular examples of spirits include tequila, rum, gin, vodka, whiskey, and bourbon. It’s hard to pinpoint the exact origin of distilled liquors, but scholars’ best guess puts the first distillation around the thirteenth century.
Jenever (English: /dʒəˈniːvər/, Dutch: [jəˈneːvər]), also known as Hollands, genever, genièvre, peket, or sometimes as Dutch gin (archaic: Holland gin or Geneva gin), is the juniper-flavoured traditional liquor in the Netherlands, Belgium and adjoining areas in northern France and northwestern Germany.
In Zurich, hot drinking chocolate is known as “Heisse Schoggi”. It revives the soul, particularly on cold days. However, fans enjoy a “Heisse Schoggi” during the summer, too – for breakfast or while relaxing on the sofa in the evening.
Restaurants in Zurich
Zurich’s restaurants cater to every palate and budget. Eating out in Zurich is a positive treat, offering both traditional Swiss cuisine and global fare. The Zurich restaurants below have been hand-picked by our guide author and are grouped into three pricing categories:
Expensive (over SFr120)
Moderate (SFr50 to SFr120)
Cheap (up to SFr50)These prices are for a three-course meal for one, including half a bottle of house wine or equivalent, tax and service charge. Besides VAT, a compulsory 15% service charge is included in the cost of all restaurant bills. Diners also tend to round the bill up to the nearest SFr10.
Expensive
Cuisine: Classic EuropeanSome of the 20th century’s greatest artists (including Stravinsky, Brecht and Joyce) have frequented the Kronenhalle. Its fin de siècle décor is well suited to its wonderful collection of 20th-century art, which includes works by Giacometti, Picasso, Miro, Chagall and Matisse. The menu attracts many regular diners, who enjoy the excellently prepared local and international dishes on the menu. Service is first-rate and the ambience more laid-back than formal, despite the price.
Address: Old Town, Rämistrasse 4, Zurich.
Telephone: +41 44 262 9900
Website: www.kronenhalle.ch
Cuisine: Modern EuropeanRico’s, 6km (4 miles) south of the city centre on Lake Zurich’s eastern shore (the ‘Gold Coast’), has long been considered one of Switzerland’s best restaurants under the patronage of Hamburg-born, Michelin-starred chef Horst Petermann. Since he retired, the place has been left in the very capable hands of his former apprentice, Rico Zandonella, who has retained the restaurant’s two Michelin stars while adding his own artistic flair to the modern European menu. The intimate 19th century building (a former art gallery) boasts an exceptional wine cellar and a lovely outdoor terrace. Reservations, though, are essential.
Address: Küsnacht, Seestrasse 160, Zurich.
Telephone: +41 44 9100 715
Website: www.ricozandonella.ch
Cuisine: SwissTimeless destination with an upscale interior & a selection of upscale Swiss & global menus. The Zunfthaus zur Saffran treats you and your guests to the finest cuisine with seasonal and regional produce. All our dishes are lovingly prepared and freshly served. Our menu offers classic Zurich style dishes, such as “Züri Gschnätzlets”, traditional Swiss dishes based on the guild culture, and our own culinary creations with Mediterranean flavours, inspired by the famous French master chef Auguste Escoffier. Every single dish is prepared by our team in the kitchen of the Zunfthaus using only our own recipes. Our wine list offers carefully selected wines from Switzerland and Europe. Sustainability is important to us, and for this reason, we do not serve wines from overseas.
Address: Limmatquai 54, Zürich.
Telephone: +41 44 2513 740
Website: www.zunfthauszursaffran.chModerate
Cuisine: Modern EuropeanFor a taste of modern Zurich, this smart yet relaxed restaurant in the renovated Schiffbau (a former ship-building warehouse) is the place to go. Stylish and bright, its vast dining room retains the industrial feel of its origins whilst also being thoroughly modern. Likewise, the menu features classic dishes with a modern twist, such as grilled scallops with avocado and mango salad, and veal liver with shallots and herbs. Changing daily specials make the most of seasonal ingredients.
Address: Zurich West, Schiffbaustrasse 4, Zurich.
Telephone: +41 44 258 7071
Website: www.lasalle-restaurant.ch
Cuisine: SwissZurich may be in the Swiss-German part of the country, but this lovely restaurant near the Grossmünster gives you the chance to sample dishes from the French-speaking area of Vaud, without making the two-hour train trip to get there. In the intimate surroundings of a medieval house (it dates back to 1274), Le Dézaley offers up such specialities as papet Vaudois (sausage with creamed leeks), air-dried meat, veal liver with rösti and steak tartar.
Address: Old Town, Römergasse 7+9, Zurich.
Telephone: +41 44 251 6129
Website: www.le-dezaley.ch
Cuisine: SwissBuilt on the remains of a 15th-century armoury, the Zeughauskeller opened in 1927, when a new owner converted the building into a beer hall. Large stone pillars hold up the ornamental wooden-beamed ceiling, and portraits of noblemen and weaponry are displayed. As with all beer cellars, patrons share lengthy tables. Classic Zurich cuisine dominates the menu, including at least 12 varieties of sausage, plus wiener schnitzel (zeal that’s breaded and fried), rösti and a tasty range of local desserts. As you’d expect, there’s a good line-up of draft and bottled beers.
Address: Bahnhofstrasse 28 A, Zurich.
Telephone: +41 44 220 1515
Website: www.zeughauskeller.chCheap
Cuisine: ItalianLa Fonte is a cosy little Italian restaurant in the suburbs – it’s located a 20-minute-drive northeast of the city centre – but it’s worth the trip. The pizzas and pasta dishes are delicious and served with a smile. Even more, it offers excellent value for money.
Address: Dubendorfstrasse 223, Zurich.
Telephone: +41 44 321 9151
Website: www.la-fonte.ch
Cuisine: VegetarianAccording to the Guinness Book of Records, this is the oldest vegetarian restaurant in the world, dating back to 1898. Now run by the fourth generation of the Hiltl family, it has still manages to appeal to a young and vibrant crowd. It is especially popular for its lunch menu, which always includes 50 salads (to eat in or take away) and its Indian and Thai buffet of around 30 different dishes in the evening, all priced by weight. At night it transforms itself into a bar and club.
Address: Sihl, Sihlstrasse 28, Zurich.
Telephone: +41 44 227 7000
Website: www.hiltl.ch
Cuisine: AsianLocated in the heart of Zurich’s district 4, Thach is a restaurant that offers menu options, a lunch and dinner buffet and a take away service for those on the go. From delicious curries and fresh rice dishes to tasty desserts, Thach has it all.
Address: Militärstrasse 84, Zurich.
Telephone: +41 432 433 727
Website: www.thach.chZurich Nightlife
The most popular place to seek out nightlife in Zurich is the Old Town, on the left bank of the River Limmat, with many bars and cafés tucked away on the side streets such as Niederdorfstrasse and Oberdorfstrasse. New bars and clubs keep opening up in the city, especially in the fourth and fifth districts known as Zurich West, around Langstrasse and Escher-Wyss-Platz. The majority of bars and clubs close around 02:00 but some stay open until 03:00 or 04:00. Information on club nights and performances (as well as theatres, concerts and opera) is listed in Züri Tipp, published in Friday’s
Tages Anzeiger Website: www.zueritipp.chTickets for cultural events are available from:
TicketCornerTelephone: 0900 800 800
Website: www.ticketcorner.comBars in Zurich
Snug, late-night lounge with an intimate vibe serving up bespoke cocktails & creative drinks. Tales@Home. Bring the Tales Bar home.
Whether cozy on the couch or relaxing on the terrace; switch off and enjoy. We have bottled 6 selected cocktails for you, which we offer in 2 different sizes. Either 500ml in the stone bottle or 100ml for a drink in between. The cocktails are filled fresh after ordering and can be picked up at the Tales Bar during our opening hours. Shipping is not possible at the moment but we are working on it. For larger quantities, personalized bottles or gifts,
Address: Selnaustrasse 29, Zürich.
Telephone: +41 44 5423 802
Website: www.tales-bar.ch
Warm & cozy brick-lined bar with a hip vibe, serving beers, wines & elevated cocktails. This bar is its remarkably vast menu of gins and gin cocktails, served by knowledgeable and helpful bartenders who are only too pleased to recommend something to suit your tastes. Ideal for starting a night among the bars of hip Zurich West, it’s a dark and atmospheric little place increasingly popular with the city’s trendy crowd. It gets busy on weekend evenings, when it stays open until 02:00.
Address: Rolandstrasse 19, Zürich.
Telephone: +41 44 2417 583
Website: www.bar63.ch
The big draw here, if you hadn’t guessed, is the view. Located on the 11th floor between the Brasserie Lipp and the Urania Observatory, it affords drinkers some great wraparound vistas of the city. It’s a classy nightlife spot too, proven by its lengthy wine and cocktail list. Things can get a little crowded, but there’s fun to be had in checking out the various design nods to Jules Verne himself.
Address: Old Town, Uraniastrasse 9, Zurich.
Telephone: +41 43 888 6667
Website: www.jules-verne.chClubs in Zurich
Varied live music & DJ nights in former theater, now nightspot with period furniture & bold murals. At the beginning of February 1924, the first cinema in the city of Zurich opened at Badenerstrasse 109. The Kosmos was the first of five large silent film palaces (Kosmos, Orient, Scala, Apollo, Forum) in which the Zurich audience could admire the gods of the screen at the time, such as Rudolpho Valentino, Greta Garbo, and Conrad Veidt.The building, which was started in 1923 by architect Ernst Zuppinger, was already designed as a cinema and as such was the first cinema building in Zurich with a circular floor plan that looks like a piece of cake. At that time, in addition to the screen, there was also a stage and an orchestra pit on the narrow front. The silent films were usually accompanied live by a pianist or an orchestra, and events without films were also shown on stage.
Address: Badenerstrasse 109, Zürich.
Telephone: +41 44 542 9090
Website: www.plaza-zurich.ch
Zurich is a city in love with electronica, but that’s not all there is. If you prefer your beats a little more retro, head to this Langstrasse club for pop, rock, funk, soul, punk and Motown. It doesn’t look much from the outside (it’s next to a kebab shop), but through the doors there’s a great atmosphere in the cellar bar, while its line-up of live gigs and DJ nights keeps the dancefloor packed. It’s small, so get there early (meaning midnight) unless you’re willing to wait to get in.
Address: Zurich West, Langstrasse 135, Zurich.
Website: www.gonzoclub.ch
Prestigious enough to count the likes of Prince, Robbie Williams and Madonna among its past visitors, Kaufleuten is one of the best known nightspots in Zurich and attracts the city’s young, rich and fashionable with its bars, restaurant and club. There are four bars across two separate floors, ranging from the theatrical, chandelier-laden main bar to the more comfy lounge area, arranged with large cushions and wooden furniture. The terrace is a great place to hang out when the weather allows.
Address: Old Town, Pelikanstrasse 18, Zurich.
Telephone: +41 44 225 3322
Website: www.kaufleuten.chLive music in Zurich
Moods im Schiffbau is an atmospheric Zurich jazz venue that draws comparison with the likes of Ronnie Scott’s in London and Vienna’s Porgy & Bess. It is considered one of Europe’s premier jazz clubs and it stages around 230 shows a year covering funk, soul, blues and electro as well as jazz. It’s an unmissable joint for anyone serious about their music with both local and international musicians stopping by for show. The venue is located in Zurich West’s Schiffbau, a former ship-building hall converted into a cultural centre.
Address: Zurich West, Schiffbaustrasse 6, Zurich.
Telephone: +41 44 276 8000
Website: www.moods.ch
The traditionally designed Volkshaus dates back to 1910, so has considerable experience at staging live music events. With several different performance venues under the one roof, it’s well set up to host all types of gigs, from the intimate to the large-scale. It draws a mixture of international acts and local musicians, counting the XX and Wilco among its recent visitors. Again, tickets can often be hard to come by.
Address: Langstrasse, Stauffacherstrasse 60, Zurich.
Telephone: +41 44 242 1155
Website: www.restaurantvolkshaus.chCulture in Zurich
In 1916 the back room of this former pub saw the birth of Dada, a literary movement founded by a group of intellectuals in protest at the horrific descent of civilisation in Western Europe during the time of WWI. The ‘literary cabaret’ they set in motion is resurrected by the modern Cabaret Voltaire – a bar, performance venue and exhibition centre which hosts a regular programme of events including film screenings, lectures, panel discussions and concerts.
Address: Niederdorf, Spiegelgasse 1, Zurich.
Telephone: +41 43 2680 844
Website: www.cabaretvoltaire.ch