Nairobi Travel Guide
Part bustling African metropolis, part explorers’ camp, Kenya’s capital Nairobi is an intoxicating blend of cosmopolitan culture, gritty, urban slums and thoroughly modern city life.
The gateway to some of the most beautiful stretches of wilderness in the world, Nairobi is never short of tourists, even if most are simply passing through to the Masai Mara in the west or the beaches of Lamu and Malindi in the east.
Founded by the British in 1899, the city began as a dusty railway depot beside a Masai water hole known as Enkare Nyrobi (meaning “cool water”), from which it drew its current name. Today it’s one of the largest cities in East Africa and home to scores of international companies and organisations, among them the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP).
Commercial success has transformed what was once an isolated supply depot into a place of bustling central thoroughfares, 1970s tower blocks, gorgeous public parks and bustling shopping areas crammed with chic boutiques and street traders from all over Kenya.
While there’s plenty to see in the city centre, including the imposing parliament building and the city’s many galleries, the real excitement is found just outside city limits.
Just seven kilometres (four miles) from the city centre is the Nairobi National Park, where you can get close to lions, impala, wildebeest and elephants, the latter due to the presence of an elephant orphanage within the park, courtesy of the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust.
Mount Kenya is also a four hour trip from the capital and day trips, although lengthy, are possible. Back in the city, slum tours have become an increasingly popular way to get a glimpse of Nairobi’s grittier side, although many aren’t as safe as tourists imagine.
Due to the activities of militant groups like Al-Shabaab, safety has become an increasingly pertinent issue when planning a trip to the Kenyan capital. They are primarily active on the land that borders Somalia though, with attacks upon the Capital rare due to tourist hubs being heavily protected.
Nevertheless, provided you take precautions when travelling at night and in poorer suburbs a visit to Nairobi can be an exhilarating experience, and it’s well worth spending a few days exploring before heading out on safari.
Founded by the British as a dusty railway depot in 1890, the once marshy area was turned into a hub for the Uganda Railway, which connected Mombasa in the East with the rubber tappers of Kampala. What the early planners didn’t realise was how popular Nairobi’s elevated position and abundant water supplies would prove to be with settlers, who flocked there to establish properties where they could.
Nairobi’s reputation for safari tourism began then too as the city established itself as a holiday resort for big-game hunters, with British authorities moving to cordon off and protect vast stretches of wilderness all over the country. It proved so popular that even Ernest Hemingway visited in a quest to bag some game.
Behind the scenes however, all was not as well. Black locals, already struggling under the burden of heavy taxes, became incensed when laws were passed in 1915 that restricted land ownership to whites only. Grievances continued to fester and when WWII ended, these flared into unrest, eventually leading to Kenyan independence in 1963. Nairobi was duly installed as the capital.
Post-independence, Nairobi continued to grow and remained enormously popular with tourists. Problems, however, arose as the city’s rapid expansion overwhelmed its infrastructure, leading to the development of the vast Kibera slum. The situation was worsened by rampant government corruption and a heavy-handed response dealt out by former President Daniel Arap Moi to any sign of resistance to his rule. As a result the city began to suffer a spate of thefts and muggings, giving rise to Nairobi’s nickname, Nairobbery.
Today, the Nairobbery stereotype still holds true, although things have improved for the residents of Kibera since the removal of Moi in 2002.
Problems still remain, not least in the threat posed by Islamic terrorists, but with tightened security staving off some of the danger, Nairobi remains one of Africa’s most popular – and intriguing – capitals.
Nairobi sits at an elevation of 1,795m (5,889ft) and some 200km (124 miles) below the Equator, enjoying a moderate climate with average temperatures fluctuating between 17°C (63°F) to 21°C (70°F) year round. January and February are a good time to visit Nairobi as they are relatively dry, with rainfall averaging 50mm (2 inches) and plenty of sunshine.
The months of March to May contain the long rainy season, making it a gloomy time to visit. April is the wettest month, averaging 130mm (5.1 inches) of rain, and it does not ease up until June. July, August, September and October are peak tourist season in Nairobi.
During this time the skies are clear, and wildlife is easy to spot among the dry grass in the national parks. Many safari enthusiasts use this time to start their trip from Nairobi to Masai Mara, hoping to catch a glimpse of some of the thousands of wildebeest and zebra migrating from June to October. November and December contain the short rainy season, the downpour turning the city lush and green once again.
Getting around Nairobi
Central Nairobi is relatively easy to explore on foot, although many of the attractions are out in the suburbs. Fortunately, the city is well stocked with taxis while matatus (minibuses) run regularly to most parts of Nairobi. Each minibus can take 14 passengers while the larger bus can carry 50 people, although they are often overcrowded which leads to safety issues.
Locals claim that the safest place to sit is in the middle section and also near the back as well. Drivers usually wear uniforms and badges, but although there are laws requiring seat belts and speed governors to be present in all matatus they are not always adhered to. You can also flag down one of the many piki pikis (motorbike taxis), though be warned: not all of them are entirely roadworthy. Local buses are operated by government bus company
Kenya Bus Service
Telephone: +254 20 2019 685
Website: www.kenyabus.net
Fares are paid directly to the conductor and buses follow numbered routes, with some unmarked bus stops along the way.
Licensed taxis in Nairobi have a yellow stripe, and drivers loiter near matatu (minibus) stands, restaurants, bars and tourist spots waiting for passengers. Failing that you can find them parked on most street corners near the city centre. Haggle hard for a fare and always agree on a price before starting the journey. Some of the privately owned taxis are ancient and prone to breakdowns, but better vehicles are operated by taxi companies such as:
Kenatco
Telephone: +254 20 250 6790
Website: www.kenatco.com
Raven Taxis
Telephone: +254 728 122 920
Kenyans drive on the left and most of the city centre roads are in acceptable condition. However queues at rush hour are lengthy, and you can be stuck in traffic for two hours or more. An inadequate number of roads also mean jams are possible at any time of day.
Although queues are less frequent in the suburbs, roads are more likely to have potholes. The highways linking nearby major cities (especially the Nairobi-Mombasa highway) are notorious for constant roadworks, so it’s worth planning if you intend to use them.
You can hire bikes in Nairobi from:
Cycloville
Address: Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 719 645 053
Website: www.cycloville.co.ke
Green Cycle Shop
Telephone: +254 717 786 681 near to Meriada Gardens Restaurant, Muthangari Gardens.
However, cycling among speeding matatus (minibuses) is not for the faint-hearted.
Benefit from Travoley’s great deals available all year round for a seamless car hire experience in Nairobi. Travel your way by choosing from our collection of brand new cars. Whether you are looking for car rental in Nairobi as part of a vacation, or renting a car for a special event, you will be sure to find a car to suit your needs from our wide range of economy and luxury models.
In order to hire a car, drivers must be at least 21 years old, depending on company policy. All drivers must carry an International Driving Permit.
Our simple booking system makes it easy to reserve online before you go, offering flexible short- and long-term rental, all at great prices with no hidden charges, so when you arrive all that’s left is to discover the best of this exciting city.
In partnership with Get Your Guide
Book popular activities in Nairobi
Things to see in Nairobi
Attractions
Located approximately 18km (11 miles) from the centre of Nairobi, the Giraffe Center is run by the African Fund for Endangered Wildlife (AFEW) and aims to increase the number of rare Rothschild giraffes left in the wild. Situated on the edge of Nairobi National Park, this small sanctuary sits on a broad stretch of savannah and is easy to find. It complements visits to Nairobi National Park and the nearby Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage excellently. Children in particular will adore it here, and its tall observation towers offer a terrific opportunity to get close to these magnificent creatures.
Address: Duma Road, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 208 070 804
Opening times: Daily 09:00-17:00.
Website: www.giraffecentre.org
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
Just ten kilometres (six miles) from the city centre is Nairobi National Park, a fabulous stretch of wilderness home to most of the Big Five (lions, buffalos, leopards and black rhinoceros) as well as Thompson’s Gazelle, zebra and wildebeest. Established in 1946, Kenya’s first National Park has a backdrop of city skyscrapers and is home to several animal sanctuaries including the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust. Despite its proximity to the city, the 117 sq km (45 sq miles) park is also on several migration routes and attracts a large number of herbivores, including giraffes. Around 400 bird species and scores of plants, including several floras unique to the area, complete an impressive picture.
Address: Nairobi National Park, Langata Road, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 800 597 000
Opening times: Daily 06:00-18:30.
Website: www.kws.go.ke
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
Karen Blixen, the Danish author behind Out Of Africa, one of the most famous books on Kenya ever written, lived in this tiny colonial-era bungalow from 1917 until 1931. Part of a larger farm, the film version of the novel was shot here in 1985. Inside, the building contains a selection of Blixen’s personal belongings including the lamp she used to signal to her British lover, hunter Denys Finch Hatton.
Address: Karen Road, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 208 002 139
Opening times: Daily 08:30-17:30.
Website: www.museums.or.ke
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
- Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage
Close to the Nairobi National Park, the Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage is run by the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust and takes in elephant calves orphaned by poachers or angry villagers. Although it’s open for just an hour a day, the touching sight of tiny elephants playing in the mud with their keepers is worth the effort alone. Visitor donations are spent on keeping the calves well looked after, as well as rescue missions which involve picking up and transporting the animals from across Kenya to the orphanage. Once old enough, the elephants are released into Tsavo National Park.
Address: Nairobi National Park, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 20 230 1396
Opening times: Daily 11:00-12:00.
Website: www.sheldrickwildlifetrust.org
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
A quick introduction to Kenya’s long and fascinating history, the National Museum of Kenya charts the progress of the nation via a series of fascinating exhibits, among them paintings, tribal artefacts and even a skeleton or two. The collections of stuffed birds and wildlife species are impressive, and the geology displays offer a fascinating introduction to the forces that shaped the Rift Valley. Be sure to check out the cultural exhibits, especially the ones on the history and culture of the Swahili coast, and don’t miss the snake park in the grounds.
Address: Museum Hill, Kipande Road, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 721 308 485
Opening times: Daily 08:30-17:30.
Website: www.museums.or.ke
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
Housed in the striking, old Bank of India building, this often overlooked museum boasts more than 400,000 documents racked up over the last half-century. But it’s the Murumbi Gallery on the first and second floor which is the real draw here, as it houses paintings and tribal photographs from across Africa, not to mention some incredible pieces of art and jewellery that date from classical times. The gallery – named after the second vice president of Kenya, Joseph Murumbi – also has an impressive collection of tribal weaponry, instruments and masks, plus exhibits on the struggle for independence and the history of Nairobi.
Address: Central Business District, Moi Avenue, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 202 224 666
Opening times: Mon-Fri 08:15-17:00, Sat 08:15-13:00.
Website: www.archives.go.ke
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
This privately run museum contains a treasure trove of photographs and memorabilia from the Uganda Railway, dubbed the “Lunatic Express” by British colonialists because of the vast amount of investment required to build it. The railway line also cost hundreds of lives – many taken by a single pair of man-eating lions in the area now covered by Tsavo National Park. Models, photographs and other relics bring this fascinating piece of colonial history alive. A collection of old trains in various states of disrepair stand in the grounds and include a rare example of the Mountain Class locomotive, one of the most powerful ever built.
Address: Central Business District, Station Road, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 709 907 411
Opening times: Daily 08:00-17:00.
Website: www.krc.co.ke
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
If you can’t get out to Kenya’s tribal areas, this long-established cultural centre offers an entertaining introduction to their dances, music and artistic traditions. Much of what is on show is dedicated to the country’s more colourful inhabitants with the Masai, Samburu and Turkana all well represented. The village itself is a small circle of nest-like huts and contains several stalls selling traditional beaded necklaces and handmade sandals for higher prices than those found in the city. The main attraction is the auditorium, which hosts more than 30 different traditional dances. It’s a touristy show, but the enthusiasm of the performers makes this a worthwhile detour on the way to Nairobi National Park.
Address: Kuwinda, Langata/Forest Edge Road, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 202 022 426
Opening times: Mon-Fri 14:30-16:00, Sat-Sun 15:30-17:15.
Website: www.bomasofkenya.co.ke
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
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Harambee Avenue Nairobi, Kenya
Standing proud in the Nairobi skyline, the city’s iconic tower was the cutting edge of architecture when it was constructed in the 1970s, but today it looks a little dated. Don’t expect to find much of interest inside – the décor is similarly old-fashioned – but there are some interesting exhibitions here from time to time. Instead, take the lift straight to the rooftop helipad where you’ll find a view that is as mesmerising today as it was when the conference centre opened. On a clear day, you can even spot big game wandering around Nairobi National Park.
Address: Central Business District, Harambee Avenue, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 20 326 1000
Opening times: Mon-Fri 07:00-18:00, Sat-Sun 08:00-17:00.
Website: www.kicc.co.ke
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
Despite the obvious risks associated with visiting a slum, trips to Kibera – Africa’s largest urban shanty town -are becoming increasingly popular, with visitors anxious to get a taste of the sharp side of life in the Kenyan capital. Home to an estimated 250,000 people Kibera is a vast urban sprawl six kilometres (four miles) from the city centre, divided into 13 ‘villages’. Guided tours usually include visits to local craftsmen and schools. It’s best to go with a respected and responsible tour company as those who have attempted to go it alone have found themselves confronted with muggers.
Address: Kibera Dr, Nairobi.
Opening times: Daily 24 hours.
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
Tourist Offices
- Nairobi Tourist Information
Address: Kenya Re Towers, Ragati Rd, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 202 749 000
Opening times: Mon-Fri 08:00-17:00.
Website: www.magicalkenya.com
Most information about Nairobi can be found on the tourist board’s
Website: www.magicalkenya.com as most official tourist centres are located around coastal areas. Nevertheless reliable information can be picked up in most hotels and backpacker lodges, with locals happy to chip in with information. Though be warned: being directed to a cousin’s shop or gallery is likely. A good guidebook is essential.
Things to do in Nairobi
- Go hiking in Karura Forest
Of the three gazetted urban forests in Nairobi, Karura is the largest and most beautiful. Criss-crossed by 50km (31 miles) of hiking trails, the forest is packed with wildlife including monkeys, marmosets and bush babies. Not to be missed is the spectacular 15m (50ft) waterfall courtesy of the Nairobi River.
Nairobi is the self-styled safari capital of Africa and one of the best starting points to spot the big five: lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and rhino. Most can be seen locally at:
Nairobi National Park
Website: www.kws.go.ke but those prepared to go further afield should contact
KATO
Website: www.katokenya.org to choose a reputable operator.
- Saddle up for a horse safari
Nairobi is surrounded by spectacular hilly countryside and a great way to explore is by horse. Saddle up with
Malo Stables
Telephone: +254 704 494 464
Website: www.malostables.com for a guided forest ride.
- Try exotic barbecue meats
Nyama choma (grilled meat) is the unofficial Kenyan national dish and served practically everywhere. While the usual suspects (beef, goat and chicken) are popular, so too are more exotic cuts, among them camel and crocodile.
Carnivore
Telephone: +254 20 514 1300
Website: www.tamarind.co.ke is a good venue to try some
- Visit a working tea plantation
The Kenyans love their tea – just as well given that they’re one of the world’s largest tea producers. Many of Nairobi’s tea farms, like
Kiambethu Tea Farm
Telephone: +254 20 201 2542
Website: www.kiambethufarm.com happily welcome visitors. Tours include a home-cooked lunch, a history of Kenyan tea farming and plenty of the produce itself.
Nairobi tours and excursions
Nairobi tours
Nature Kenya organises bird-watching walks from the National Museum every Wednesday. Without leaving Nairobi’s city limits, you can expect to see black kites, Marabou storks, sacred ibises, hornbills, bee-eaters and sunbirds. Nature Kenya also run weekend nature walks, including a very popular dudu (insect) crawl.
Telephone: +254 20 374 6090
Website: www.naturekenya.org
Several agencies offer walking tours of Nairobi’s city centre with a local guide, visiting the Parliament buildings, the city market and the Kenyatta International Conference Centre (KICC), Nairobi’s signature building, which offers stunning views towards Nairobi National Park from its rooftop helipad. Try East Africa Shuttles on Muindi Mbingu Street or Uniglobe Let’s Go Travel, which has offices on Waiyaki Way in Westlands and in the Crossroads Shopping Centre in Karen.
Telephone: +254 20 224 8453
Website: www.uniglobeletsgotravel.com
Nairobi excursions
- The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust
On a plot in Nairobi National Park, this private charitable trust cares for orphaned elephants and rhinos, rescued from poachers or saved after being abandoned by their parents. It is the world’s leading bank of expertise on hand-rearing these large herbivores, using a specially created milk formula. Each orphaned youngster receives 24-hour care from an amazingly dedicated team of keepers. Once healthy and old enough, the orphans are rehabilitated and returned to the wild. It is possible to visit the trust for an hour daily and see the young animals up close, a truly heart-warming experience.
Telephone: +254 20 230 1396
Website: www.sheldrickwildlifetrust.org
The nearest national park to Nairobi starts just 7km (4 miles) from the railway station – you can even see big game from some of the taller buildings in the centre. Covering 117 sq km (44 sq miles) of marshland and savannah, Nairobi National Park is home to black rhinos, lions, leopards, cheetahs, hyena, buffaloes, giraffes, zebras, wildebeest and over 400 species of birds. In July and August, this surprisingly accessible, underrated park is also the setting for the second largest migration of wildebeest and zebras in Kenya. It’s easy to arrange an independent trip in a hired vehicle, but most safari agents offer half-day safaris.
Telephone: +254 20 242 3423
Website: www.kws.go.ke
Shopping in Nairobi
Shopping in Nairobi is an art form. Supermarkets and upmarket mall stores charge fixed prices but you’ll have to haggle everywhere else. As the world over, sellers start high and buyers low, but with a bit of give and take you’ll eventually reach a price that both sides find acceptable. The upper end of Moi Avenue is Nairobi’s prime shopping strip, with plenty of mainstream stores, but handicrafts are better purchased in the city’s bustling markets.
Markets and street vendors are found all over Nairobi, but more upmarket shopping opportunities are clustered around Moi and Koinange Avenues in the centre. The big city malls are also worth a visit, although don’t expect too much from the fashion boutiques – some are great, others sell cheap knock-off versions of Western high street brands.
Gallery Watatu on Standard Street sells artworks by big African names, and the local clothiers that offer bespoke tailoring are often reliable, cheap and able to complete a safari suit commission in 24 hours. If you’re looking for a more serene shopping experience then The Hub Karen is a way out from central Nairobi, providing what you need without the bustle.
The City Market on Muindi Mbingu Road is jam-packed with vegetable stalls and souvenir vendors, but you’ll find a more exciting selection of items on sale at the Westland Curio Market on Parkland Road or the roaming Masai Market. Good- alue crafts can also be located at Embakasi Village Crafts Market, on the Mombasa Road.
The best shopping centres are out in the suburbs, catering to wealthy locals and expats. All have cafés, restaurants and upscale stores selling African and imported goods. Westlands has the posh Sarit Centre on Parklands Road and the Mall Shopping Centre on Waiyaki Way, while Karen Shopping Centre on Ngong Road is also worth a visit.
Opening hours are from 08:00 to 17:00 / 18:00.
Elaborate beaded jewellery, paintings and hand-carved wooden crafts are all worth taking home and can be picked up for next to nothing in street markets. Gorgeous handmade leather sandals are also worth buying, although quality varies from place to place. Other highlights include colourful woven baskets, Masai beads and soapstone bowls and pots.
Goods bought outside of markets are subject to a 16 percent VAT.
Nairobi Food And Drink
Food In Nairobi
Ugali is like a porridge but much more dense made from white maize meal or maize flour. It is the staple diet of the indigenous people of East Africa. Ugali or Nsima as it is known in Kenya, is generally enjoyed with a vegetable and/or meat stew.
- Irio (Mashed Peas and Potato Mix)
Irio (Mukimo) is one of the most famous dishes in Kenya, a food that originated as a Kikuyu staple and spread throughout the country. Green peas and potatoes are boiled and then mashed up before whole kernels of maize (corn) are added to give the mash some extra starch and texture.
Githeri (Gĩtheri), also called muthere or mutheri, is a traditional Kenyan meal consisting of maize and legumes (primarily beans) mixed and boiled together. The maize and beans are mixed in a sufuria, a type of pot, with water added, and the mixture is boiled until fully cooked.
- Kenyan Pilau (Spiced Rice)
Kenyan beef pilau is a simple dish of rice flavoured with meat stock and spices. This aromatic rice dish is commonly served at parties and occasions.
- Wali wa Nazi (Coconut Rice)
This incredible rice is deceptively simple. It’s just long-grain white jasmine rice cooked in a mixture of coconut milk and water, with a little minced garlic and salt for depth. THAT’S IT. It sounds so plain, but you’ll be blown away on first bite.
- Sukuma Wiki (Collard Greens / Kale)
Sukuma wiki is an East African dish made with collard greens, known as sukuma, cooked with onions and spices. It is often served and eaten with ugali (made from maize flour).
This comforting one-pot stew is popular in many parts of Africa, but the Kenyan version is made with red beans, potatoes, onion, meat and corn in a rich tomato and beef gravy spiced with curry powder, paprika and chilli. It can be served as an appetizer or as a main meal with chapati or rice.
- Nyama Choma (Roasted Meat) Pride of Kenyan Food
Nyama Choma comprises of two words: ‘nyama’ which means meat and ‘choma’ which means barbecued in English. Nyama choma is a traditional meat dish from Kenya, and can be made with goat meat, beef, or lamb. The origin of the dish traces back to the Massai people as they immigrated from North to East Africa.
Drink In Nairobi
The national beverage is chai – tea. Universally drunk at breakfast and as a pick-me-up at any time, the traditional way of making it is a weird variant on the classic British brew: milk, water, lots of sugar and tea leaves are brought to the boil in a kettle and served scalding hot (chai asli).
Changaa or Chang’aa is a traditional home-brewed spirit, popular in Kenya.
“Dawa means “medicine” or “magic potion” in Swahili. In other words, a dawa is said to be so potent that it will cure whatever ails you. The recipe is based on a famous Brazilian drink that was introduced to Kenya.
- Arabica and Robusta Coffee
There are two main varieties of coffee grown in Kenya: Arabica and Robusta. Arabica is the most commonly grown variety, and it is known for its sweet, smooth flavour. On the other hand, Robusta is a hardier plant that is resistant to pests and disease but has a slightly bitter taste.
Kenyan Originals is an alcoholic fruit cider range blended with 100% real Kenyan fruit at 8% ABV. Every sip of KO fruit cider is a taste of Kenyan character. Bold, raw, and authentically unique. We carefully craft every drop just outside of Nairobi.
At home, Kenyans drink tea strungi, Swahili for plain black tea or tangawiz, Swahili for black tea with fresh ginger.
Beer is an alcoholic product of fermentation of a mixture of grain, water, hops, and yeast.
Restaurants in Nairobi
The most famous restaurants in Nairobi are out in the suburbs, but there are some excellent choices downtown, catering to a mixture of tourists, office workers and expats. Taxis loiter around outside the top spots in the evening, offering a safer alternative to walking back to your hotel at night. The Nairobi restaurants below have been handpicked by our guide author and are grouped into three pricing categories:
Expensive (over Ksh1,500)
Moderate (Ksh500 to Ksh1,500)
Cheap (up to Ksh500)
The above prices are for a three-course meal for one and do not include drinks or service. Tipping is not necessary in cheaper restaurants in Nairobi. In more expensive establishments, a ten percent service charge may be added to the bill. If you pay by credit card, you may incur an additional 16% VAT charge.
Expensive
Cuisine: Seafood
Nairobi’s premier fish restaurant is elegant and expensive but well worth the money. Fresh fish, crab, lobster and prawns are flown in from the coast daily, and the menu also runs to venison and excellent steaks. Specialities include delicious mangrove oysters and prawns cooked in just about every way imaginable – although battered are most popular. Local freshwater fish such as Nile Perch and tilapia from Lake Victoria are also worth a try. Service in the Arabic-styled dining room is excellent and the atmosphere outstanding.
Address: Dari Office park, 165 Ngong Rd, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 719 346 346
Website: www.tamarind.co.ke
Cuisine: International
A glamorous addition to Nairobi’s dining scene, Seven has proved a huge hit with expats and well-heeled locals alike, largely as a result of its sleek interior (including an agate bar) and a well thought-out menu of international classics. Although it describes itself as ‘Afro-fusion’, most of what’s on offer is upmarket nyama chomo (grilled meat) – not a bad thing. Expect tender cuts of dry-aged local meats spiced up with Indian flavours, plus well-cooked chips and really good side salads.
Address: Waiyaki Wy, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 73 777 6677
Website: www.experienceseven.com
Cuisine: Mediterranean
Tucked away in the luxury Serena hotel, the Mandhari is one of the fanciest dining spots in Nairobi and perfect if you’re in the market for candle-lit romance. The dining room is pared back and elegant, lit with tea lights come nightfall, and looks out over the Nairobi skyline. The menu is mostly Italian, although several French and Spanish dishes have crept on. Either way, nearly everything is delicious and much lighter than the local fare.
Address: Central, Processional Way, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 73 212 4000
Website: www.serenahotels.com
Moderate
Cuisine: African
An outing to this restaurant, just outside the city, is an essential part of any visit to Nairobi. The city’s most famous nyama choma (grilled meat) eatery is arranged around an enormous roasting pit upon which meat of various kinds is skewered upon Masai swords, and the food only ends once the diners put down the white flag in defeat. Carnivore no longer serves plains game, but you can dine on farmed camel, ostrich and crocodile as well as mainstream meats like beef, lamb and pork. It’s as much a show as it is a restaurant, and one that doesn’t disappoint at that.
Address: Nairobi West Estate, Langata Road, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 205 141 300
Website: www.tamarind.co.ke
Cuisine: International
Travellers have been gathering in this historic café-cum-brasserie since 1959 to escape the bustle of downtown Nairobi and post messages on the thorn tree in the courtyard (the current tree is actually the third to stand on the site). Located within the historic Stanley Hotel, the clientele is a mix of expats and well-heeled locals, with ladies who lunch making up much of the midday traffic. The menu runs to sandwiches, pizzas and cakes, and live bands play most evenings.
Address: Central Business District, Kenyatta Avenue, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 71 904 8000
Website: www.sarovahotels.com
Cuisine: Italian
Nairobi’s longest-running Italian restaurant has been doing business since 1981, and it remains popular with locals and expats alike. A bustling downtown bistro with waiters in blazers, convincing pizzas and street-facing balconies that spill over with pot plants, its convivial atmosphere and to-die-for squid ink pasta are reasons alone to visit. Easy to find, it’s an excellent bet when a taste of home (or Europe at the very least) is exactly what you need.
Address: Corner of Wabera Street and Kaunda Street, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 799 739 679
Website: www.trattoria.co.ke
Cheap
Cuisine: African
Just northeast of the centre of Nairobi, this lively canteen is a great place to sample food from the Swahili coast, including fresh fish cooked in coconut milk, goat curry and Indian-style biryani (fried rice). When it comes to starch, take your pick from naan bread, boiled rice or ugali (maize porridge). It’s no-frills dining but delicious fare, cheap prices and cheerful clientele all make up for it.
Address: Central, Gaborone Road, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 72 229 2525
Cuisine: International
This justifiably popular coffee shop is Kenya’s answer to Starbucks. Once confined to a single branch on Mama Ngina Street, it now boasts several Nairobi branches all over the city. This is no surprise given that it is one of the best places for a decent coffee in the country, with excellent Ethiopian and Ugandan blends as well as the usual South American suspects. They have since expanded their menu to both lunch and dinner, though the extensive breakfast options remain a highlight.
Address: Transnational Plaza, Mama Ngina St, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 721 494 049
Website: www.javahouseafrica.com
Cuisine: Fast Food
If you’re looking to get some value out of your holiday funds then ANPA is not a place to skip out on. This small, hidden gem offers more of a brunch/snack than a full meal, but with a menu that’s different every week (based off whatever fresh ingredients owner/chef can get his hands on), it’s an experience worth going for if you’re in it for the flavour.
Address: Woodlands Ln, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 721 431 501
Website: www.anpa.com
Nairobi Nightlife
Nightlife in Nairobi is bustling to say the least. Live music is everywhere and even nightclubs host a mix of DJ sets and guest bands. There are plenty of bars and discos in the city centre but the best can be found in the suburbs, particularly in Westlands. Be warned: persistent prostitutes frequent many bars, even the more upmarket ones.
Bars in Nairobi
A chic Moroccan-themed lounge, Casablanca boasts cosy silk-covered sofas, an inner room that resembles a Bedouin tent and some top-quality shisha. Enormously popular with the expat community, other highlights here include a comprehensive cocktail menu and a lengthy wine list – a rare commodity in Nairobi. It’s not the most feverish of bars, so don’t expect thumping house or live reggae bands, but it has style in spades and plenty of space to relax.
Address: Kilimani, Lenana Road, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 723 020 102
One of the most upscale drinking spots in Nairobi, Champagne is endorsed by Veuve Cliquot and really does serves up fishbowl cocktails in a variety of sensational hues. it might sound like a tacky homage to bling but in reality it’s sleek, well-appointed and well-staffed. Yes, Nairobi’s flashier types congregate here, but it’s still worth a visit if only for the extensive champagne menu.
Address: Sankara Nairobi, 05 Woodvale Grove, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 703 028 000
- Tropicana Restaurant At Gipsy Bar
A mixed crowd of expats and Kenyans gathers at this fun, friendly bar in the suburbs of Nairobi. Don’t expect a chic lounge or anything approaching it: the Gipsy Bar is cheerfully cheesy, including one that looks a bit like a gentleman’s club circa 1952. Music is a mix of pop, rock and African beats, and there’s a snack menu should you feel peckish in between beers.
Address: Gipsy bar, Woodvale Grove, Starehe.
Telephone: +254 727 329 690
Named after one of the first British settlers to arrive in Kenya, the 3rd Baron Delamere, Hugh Cholmondeley, this elegant bar allows the colonial era to live on. Located at the smart Norfolk Hotel, visitors have been gathering at this historic watering hole since 1904 for a sundowner in front of the setting African daylight, and it’s still a prime spot in Nairobi for an evening gin and tonic. They also serve an expansive menu of European and Asian food, ranging from regular steaks to ostrich fillets.
Address: Central Business District, Harry Thuku Road, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 20 226 5000
Website: www.fairmont.com
This friendly top floor bar comes complete with pool tables, cheap food and a wide selection of drinks, including the ubiquitous Tusker and Safari brand lagers. It’s extremely busy at weekends, mainly thanks to its reasonably priced drinks menu and the even cheaper pool on offer. Zanze is always welcoming and attracts an eclectic crowd of mixed locals and expats, and although weekdays tend to be quieter, plenty of Nairobi city workers swing by for a cold beer on their way home from work.
Address: Kenya Cinema Plaza, Moi Avenue, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 202 222 568
Live music in Nairobi
With its rustic varnished log walls, bougainvillea-draped courtyard and safari-themed décor, Klub House may not be a sleek New York-style jazz club, but it’s still pretty good fun. DJs, jazz bands, reggae outfits and even country music stars grace the stage at this popular Westlands haunt where the drinks (mostly beer and spirits) come well-priced. As a result it never really empties, particularly at weekends when it is packed all day and well into the early hours of the following morning.
Address: Parklands, Ojijo Road, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 71 796 9500
Website: www.kahamagroup.com
Theatres in Nairobi
Opposite the Norfolk Hotel, Nairobi’s main playhouse puts on classic and contemporary drama and musicals, with an emphasis on Kenyan actors and playwrights. One of the more popular theatres in the region, the regular performances here are always packed. Although it’s the heart of the theatre scene in Kenya, theatre-goers are often treated to visiting shows from other African countries.
Address: Central Business District, Harry Thuku Road, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 20 267 2843
Website: www.kenyaculturalcentre.go.ke
Music and Dance in Nairobi
Located in a converted warehouse on Dunga Road, this impressive artistic enterprise was set up to promote contemporary African art, music and dance. The building contains ten separate studios, all devoted to both visual and performing arts, and is the place to see the best up-and-coming local talent in action. As well as hosting excellent performances, the centre has workshops, a recording studio and an art gallery displaying the work of both Kenyan artists and those from neighbouring Uganda and Tanzania.
Address: South B, Dunga Road, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 72 699 2200
Website: www.thegodownartscentre.com
It hosts evenings of contemporary dance and music performance, mostly presented by local groups and companies. It is also the place to enjoy colorful traditional performances by the Maasai and Samburu tribes. Check local newspapers for listings.
Address: Kauria Cl, Nairobi.
Telephone: +254 727 415 678
Website: www.nairobiartcentre.org
