Mumbai (Bombay) Travel Guide
Sprawling, overcrowded and chaotic Mumbai is one of the most stifling and stimulating cities on the planet. Home to Bollywood, India’s fashion capital and the capital of Maharashtra state, Mumbai can at times be overwhelming, but this metropolis is also endlessly fascinating.
Squeezed onto a small island connected by bridges to the mainland, Mumbai is India’s largest city and financial epicentre, home to great wealth, glistening skyscrapers and fashion-savvy locals. But Mumbai is also a city of extreme inequality where affluence and abject poverty sit side by side. At one extreme, the city boasts extortionate real estate prices; at the other, Mumbai is home to Asia’s largest slum population.
The busy streets are packed with grand colonial architecture, a myriad of temples and mosques, and many ancient bazaars. Visitors can immerse themselves in colonial history at Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, the Gateway of India and the nearby legendary Taj Mahal Hotel. Alternatively, head towards Marine Drive to gawp at a surprising number of art deco buildings; in fact Mumbai is second only to Miami when it comes to this architectural style.
Or dive into modern-day life at the Dhobi Ghat; dance ’till dawn in swanky bars or hang out with a cold beer in legendary backpacker haunts; eat at some of India’s best restaurants or find a sandy seaside spot to sample Mumbai’s most popular snack, bhelpuri. Be warned though, the city’s beaches are great to hang out in but the seas are notoriously polluted. If you want to escape the din, head to the city’s well-maintained city parks or clutch of peaceful museums and art galleries mainly located to the south of Mumbai. This is where most of the city’s wealthy inhabitants live; shops like Armani and Hermes lure the big spenders, while real estate prices are comparable to Manhattan.
However, to truly get under the skin of the city, head to one of Mumbai’s bustling bazaars, a riot of colour and people; take in a movie where enraptured cinema-goers enthusiastically clap, cheer and whistle at their Bollywood heros and heroines; watch cricket, the nation’s sporting passion, being played by young and old alike at Azad Maidan or time your visit to coincide with one of the major festivals like Ganesh Chaturthi and Diwali when Mumbai’s streets teem with festival goers of all ages.
Cosmopolitan and liberal, Mumbaikers, as the locals are known, ensure the city is a diverse melting pot, thanks to a regular stream of migrants from other parts of India. This is reflected in the vast array of temples, mosques, churches and even synagogues that dot the cityscape. However, on the flip side, tensions between communities have erupted with devastating consequences for the city. Hindu-Muslim religious tensions in the early 1990s sparked bombs and communal rioting, while in 2008, the city endured its own 9/11 when coordinated terrorist attacks across Mumbai resulted in hundreds of injuries and deaths.
But however you choose to experience Mumbai, one thing is for certain: amid the colour and chaos, the city is certain to leave an impression.
Mumbai owes its colourful present to its equally interesting past.
Originally a group of seven islands inhabited by Koli fishermen, the area was surrendered to Portugal in 1534, who called it ‘Bom Bahia’ meaning ‘the good bay’.
The English arrived in the early 17th century and the Portuguese handed them the city in 1661 as part of a dowry to King Charles II when he wed his Portuguese consort Catherine of Braganza.
The king didn’t want the trouble of ruling this far-off city (then called Bombay), so it was leased to the East India Company for 10 pounds of gold a year, and soon expanded.
In 1687, the Company made Bombay their Indian headquarters and within a century it had become the Gateway to India.
Control of Bombay passed back to the Crown in 1858. The city stayed in British hands until independence in 1947, and it was during this 90-year period that modern Bombay really took shape.
This included ambitious building projects and the reclamation of the seven islands to turn Bombay into one large island. Meanwhile, the cotton trade boomed, while the opening of the Suez Canal cemented Bombay’s port as a commercial hub.
Since independence, the city’s history has been pockmarked with violence. Communal strife resulted in 1960 in the state of Bombay being split into Maharashtra and Gujarat.
Communal rioting led to the deaths of 800 people in 1992 following the destruction of the Babri Masjid mosque, while in 1996, a railway bomb which killed more than 200 people was also the result of religious tensions.
In 2008, the city came under coordinated terrorist attack by Islamic-trained militants from Pakistan, who killed more than 160 people.
Today, Mumbai is an economic powerhouse and home to vast numbers of government employees along with a large pool of self-employed workers, who earn their living as hawkers, taxi drivers, mechanics and other blue-collar professions.
India’s first train set off from Mumbai in 1853.
Established in 1969, Sanjay Gandhi National Park is surrounded by Mumbai on three sides.
Dharavi, Mumbai’s central slum, has about 20,000 micro factories.
- Weather in Mumbai (Bombay)
The best time to visit Mumbai is from October to March.
Summers (March to May) are stifling hot and humid, with temperatures reaching up to 40°C (104°F).
Winters (November to February) are dry and cooler.
The minimum temperature reaches up to 10°C (50°F). The monsoon season is from June to September; it is best to avoid the city then, as flooding is frequent. Festivals take place all year around and can attraction (even by India’s standards) massive crowds, so always check ahead.
Getting around Mumbai (Bombay)
The first line of the gleaming
Mumbai Metro
Telephone: +91 22 3031 0900
Website: www.reliancemumbaimetro.com opened in 2014 between Ghatkopar and Versova.
You can pay for a single trip by token, but a smartcard is more economical if you’re making multiple journeys. There are plans for additional lines on the network.
Mumbai is well served by its suburban rail network. It can get extremely overcrowded however, particularly during rush hour. There are ladies-only carriages which are recommended for all female travellers. Single- and double-decker buses are also useful for getting around town. Fares are cheap around south Mumbai, but bus routes can be hard to fathom. Check:
Website: www.bestundertaking.com for information.
Buses are often crowded and seats hard to come by; only a small minority are fitted with air conditioning. Tickets are best purchased from the driver.
Mumbai has plenty of black-and-yellow premier taxis plying the streets and they are the best way to get around. Unlike other Indian cities, autorickshaws are banned from the centre of the city and are only available in the suburbs.
You can hail taxis (black and yellow) on the street and drivers almost always use the meter without prompting. Fares (usually inexpensive) are calculated according to a conversion table, which all drivers are required to carry.
ComfortCars Cab
Telephone: +91 79 7711 0611
City Cool Cab
Telephone: +91 766 655 4466
Offers private air-conditioned taxis a third more expensive but also more comfortable. Taxi drivers don’t always know Mumbai’s street names, so give directions by landmarks. Tipping etiquette can also be confusing; some drivers demand a tip quite openly, while others are content with the metered or negotiated fare. A 10% tip is generally acceptable.
Driving in Mumbai is not recommended for tourists. The streets are chaotic and poorly signposted and you’ll have to dodge trucks, cows and potholes in addition to finding your way around. There are traffic regulations, but they’re regularly ignored. Parking is another huge problem in Mumbai, and another reason not to drive.
Bicycles are popular on the crowded streets of Mumbai and there is no requirement for cyclists to wear helmets. Motorbikes are available for long-term buy-back (you purchase the bike and the shop guarantees to buy it back from you when you’re done) from
Mumbykers
Address: Khetwadi Khambata, Khemraj Bhuvan Bldg, Mumbai.
Telephone: +91 98 3346 3615
Twin Tring – Cycle Rental and Servicing
Address: Rokdiya, Devidas Cross Ln, Borivali West, Mumbai.
Telephone: +91 98 2076 0684
Website: www.twintring.in
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Things to see in Mumbai (Bombay)
Attractions
- Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (CST)
This magnificent railway station, formerly Victoria Terminus, was completed in 1888, and remains one of the greatest British-built constructions in India. Designed by FW Stevens, this UNESCO World Heritage site features a fantastical amalgamation of Indian and European architectural styles. It’s adorned with domes, turrets, spires, stained-glass windows, gargoyles and intricate carvings of plants and animals found on the Maharashtran coast. As India’s busiest train station, it’s worth visiting just to witness the incredible crush of humanity.
Address: Fort, Dr D Navroji Road, Mumbai.
Telephone: 139 (in India only).
Opening times: Daily early morning to late evening.
Website: www.cr.indianrailways.gov.in
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: Yes
This huge triumphal gate was constructed for the 1911 visit by King George V, but wasn’t completed until 1924. Rather ignominiously, it was the setting for the British Army farewell parade when India was finally handed back to the Indian people in 1948. Designed by George Wittet, it blends Hindu and Islamic styles, and it’s a favourite meeting spot and the starting point for boat-rides to Elephanta Island.
Address: Colaba, Apollo Bunder, Mumbai.
Opening times: Daily 24 hours.
Website: www.mumbaicity.gov.in
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
- Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya
Mumbai’s biggest, and perhaps best, museum is housed within a grand domed building built in classic Indo-Saracenic style. Opened in 1923, it was designed by George Wittet of Gateway of India fame. Inside, the eclectic collections cover everything from Hindu and Buddhist sculptures and miniature paintings to weaponry and stuffed animals. It’s also worth exploring the peaceful grounds. Admission includes a helpful audio guide.
Address: Fort, 159-161 M.G. Road, Mumbai.
Telephone: +91 22 6958 4400
Opening times: Thurs-Tues 10:15-18:00.
Website: www.csmvs.in
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
Commonly referred to as Bombay University, this imposing gothic building was designed by Gilbert Scott in 1857 and is one of India’s oldest universities. The University Library and Convocation Hall were once open to the public, but access has been limited to students since the 2008 terrorist attacks. It’s still impressive when viewed from outside, with gothic spiral staircases and the Rajabai Clock Tower looming 80m (262ft) above the Oval Maidan.
Address: Fort, M.G. Road, Mumbai.
Telephone: +91 22 2270 8700
Opening times: Daily 24 hours (exterior).
Website: www.mu.ac.in
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
Built on reclaimed land, Marine Drive is Mumbai’s most famous thoroughfare. Lined with grandiose Victorian buildings, ageing art deco apartment blocks and palm trees, the road runs down Back Bay from Malabar Hill to Nariman Point. At night it twinkles with streetlights, earning it the nickname ‘Queen’s Necklace’. At the top end is Chowpatty Beach, the only strip of sand in central Mumbai and a favourite spot with locals for evening strolls.
Address: Malabar Hill to Nariman Point, Marine Drive, Mumbai.
Opening times: Daily 24 hours.
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
This historic Hindu temple in the heart of Bhuleshwar Market was built to honour the city’s patron goddess Mumba Devi (whose name was reputedly the source for the English word ‘Bombay’). While not spectacularly ornate, the temple throngs with activity and has formed the spiritual heart of the city for more than six centuries. Devotees queue daily to pay their respects to Mumba Devi, an incarnation of the Hindu mother goddess.
Address: Mumbadevi, Bhuleshwar Market, Mumbai.
Telephone: +91 22 2242 4974
Opening times: Daily 06:30-20:45.
Website: www.mumbadevi.org.in
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
- Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat ( Washing Place)
The Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat is where Mumbai’s vast quantities of dirty laundry arrive to be washed and aired by a legion of hard-working dhobi-wallahs (washermen and women). Every day, hundreds of bags of laundry are delivered to the ghats and are washed in row upon row of open-air troughs. The view from the flyover outside Mahalaxmi train station is quite remarkable.
Address: Mahalaxmi, Dr E. Moses Road, Mumbai.
Opening times: Dawn to dusk.
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
Mumbai’s most famous strip of sand is no Waikiki, but the beach is special toMumbaikers thanks to the many Bollywood movies that have been filmed here. Much improved in recent years, it’s still a place to promenade rather than swim, particularly at dusk, when the sand overflows with locals taking the sea air, and hawkers selling plates of bhelpuri (Mumbai-style noodle salad).
Address: Marine Drive, Mumbai.
Opening times: Daily 24 hours.
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
This grandiose hotel has been a Mumbai icon since it was constructed in 1903. Built by J.N. Tata, the Parsi industrialist, after supposedly being refused entry into one of the city’s European hotels for being “a native”, it has since hosted everyone from The Beatles to Bill Clinton. It recently hit the headlines after a terrorist siege, but with tightened security and the damage repaired, it’s worth peeping into the lobby or dropping by for dinner, even if you don’t stay.
Address: Colaba, Apollo Bunder, Mumbai.
Telephone: +91 22 6665 3366
Opening times: Daily 08:00-10:00 (for non-guests).
Website: www.tajhotels.com
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
Tourist Offices
- Government of India Tourist Office
Address: Uttara Rd, Nariman Point, Mumbai.
Telephone: +91 22 2202 3145
Opening times: Mon-Fri 09:30-18:00.
Website: www.incredibleindia.org
This useful office by Churchgate train station provides information on all of India as well as the city of Mumbai and Maharashtra state. They also maintain desks at the international and the domestic airports.
Things to do in Mumbai (Bombay)
- Cycle the city before it wakes
Mumbai is constant bustle and buzz, and unless you rise before the sun you won’t find a moment’s calm. So set an early alarm and join
Reality Tours
Telephone: +91 98 2082 2253
Website: www.realitytoursandtravel.com to experience the city’s most famous sights in the stillness of dawn. After your early morning bike ride, they even provide breakfast.
- Don’t miss a recital at the NCPA
The mid-20th century building may be out of step with some of India’s grander architecture, but inside the National Centre for the
Performing Arts
Telephone: +91 22 2282 4567
Website: www.ncpamumbai.com is one of the country’s finest cultural institutions. With over 600 performances annually, it meets many tastes. Don’t miss the Indian classical music recitals.
- Experience Mumbai’s wet and wild side
Adrenaline junkies will relish white-water rafting on the Kundalika River, 120km (74 miles) outside Mumbai, with
Kundalika Rafting
Telephone: +91 20 6644 7777
Website: www.kundalikarafting.org
Set within virgin forests, it takes around 1.5 hours to paddle the 14km (9 miles) stretch and is a great insight into some of the country’s natural surroundings.
- Head out to sea and escape the crowds
Chowpatty Beach is a popular stretch of shoreline for those seeking respite. The most peaceful time to go is early morning but the solace won’t last long. If you really want to escape the crowds, head out to sea.
The H2O Centre
Telephone: +91 22 2367 7546
Website: www.h2oadventures.in offer jet skiing, parasailing and speed boating, among other aquatic activities.
- Speed around a go-kart track
For a whole day of fun head to
Hakone ( Telephone: +91 22 4005 9004 )
A dedicated sports and entertainment complex in Powai, a 20-minute drive from Mumbai. Here, younger families can enjoy paddle boats, bumper cars and arcade machines, and adults can let their hair down too with paintballing and a large, roaring go-kart track.
Mumbai (Bombay) tours and excursions
Mumbai (Bombay) tours
Following the success of Slumdog Millionaire, there has been a growing interest in exploring some of Mumbai’s most deprived areas in a socially conscious way. Reality Tours and Travel lead tours through Dharavi, one of Asia’s largest slums and home to over one million people, offering a chance to meet some of its residents, and gain a glimpse into their way of life. Around 80% of the company’s profits are ploughed back into social and educational projects in the slum.
Telephone: +91 98 2082 2253
Website: www.realitytoursandtravel.com
Movies are hugely popular in India (second only to cricket), and Mumbai is responsible for the majority of the Hindi-language films made in the country. The centre of the Bollywood movie industry is Film City at Goregaon, where the big film studios are located. The bulk of Bollywood blockbusters involve sugary love stories and action dramas, with awesome choreographed song and dance routines, and you can get a glimpse of the action on a tour with Bollywood Tourism.
Telephone: +91 22 4343 8100
Website: www.bollywoodtourism.com
Mumbai (Bombay) excursions
- Sanjay Gandhi National Park
Located just 40km (25 miles) from Mumbai, and almost surrounded by urban sprawl, the Sanjay Gandhi National Park is a garden oasis, far removed from the chaos of the city. This expansive reserve is home to dozens of species of birds and butterflies, plus leopards and even a few (rarely seen) tigers. Hidden away inside the park are the remarkable Kanheri Caves, a network of 109 caves carved out of the bedrock by Buddhist monks between the 2nd and 9th centuries. Taxis can be chartered at the station to reach the park.
Telephone: +91 22 2886 0362
Website: www.sgnp.maharashtra.gov.in
A short boat ride from Mumbai, the UNESCO-listed Elephanta Caves (or more correctly, cave temples) were carved into a rocky outcrop on Elephanta Island between AD450 and 750. Despite damage caused by Portuguese soldiers in the colonial period, the chambers are still covered in spectacular sculptures of Hindu deities, including a monumental three-headed statue depicting Shiva as the creator, preserver and destroyer of the universe. Hour-long boats depart from the Gateway of India every 30 minutes from Tuesday to Sunday 0900-1530. The last departure from Elephanta is at 1700. Tickets can be bought at the Gateway of India.
Website: www.asi.nic.in
Shopping in Mumbai (Bombay)
Mumbai is a shopper’s paradise where bargaining is the norm. The shops and bazaars offer everything from expensive European antiques to local spices by way of electrical goods, silks, designer fashion and homeware.
For designer fashion, try the boutiques near Kemp’s Corner, including Courtyard, 41/44 Minoo Desai Marg, which stocks top local designers, and Melange, 33 Altamount Road, for chic, high-end clothes by 70 Indian designers. Mumbai is also home to a number of tailors who will make clothes quickly at a reasonable cost. Bespoke leather ware is another good buy from the main road in Dharavi.
For antiques, curios and furniture, the shops along Merewether Road behind the Taj Mahal Palace & Tower are a good place to start. The main drag, Mutton Street, is teeming with antique shops hawking everything from grandfather clocks and English tea sets to crystal chandeliers. Many are, however, reproductions so choose carefully and haggle fiercely.
Mumbai is a major centre of the diamond trade and those who know what they’re looking for can pick up some great bargains. Those with less cash to splash should visit the Bombay Store, on Sir P Mehta Road in the Fort area, for all sorts of Indian souvenirs. Cheaper still are the handicrafts at the Central Cottage Industries Emporium, Shivaji Marg, between Apollo Bunder and Regal. Colaba Causeway is a good place for souvenirs – bartering is expected; start at one quarter of the first price offered.
Mumbai’s bazaars are worth visiting for the experience alone. Head to Mangaldas Market for silk and cloth, Zaveri Bazaar for jewellery, and Dhabu Street for leather goods. For fashion bargains, head to Fashion Street Market on M Gandhi Road. For antiques and furniture to shoes and car parts, try Chor Bazaar, otherwise known as ‘Thieves Market’.
Many of Mumbai’s malls are located in the city’s outlying suburbs but there are a handful that are located in the city. High Street Phoenix, housed in a former textile mill on Senapati Bapat Marg, Lower Parel, has an upmarket Skyzone floor dedicated to international and national stores. Atria Millennium Mall, next to the Planetarium, is split over five floors and is renowned for international designer brands. Oberoi Mall, off Western Express Highway, features an impressive atrium which acts as a shop front for every store within the mall.
Markets are generally open from 09:00 to 19:00, and shops do not open until 10:00 or 10:30 but tend to remain open until about 19:00.
Avid souvenir hunters will not be disappointed with the wealth of products on offer. From paintings, sculptures, handicraftsnand artworks to leatherware, carpets, rugs, shawls, antiques, and jewellery, there is a mind-boggling array of goods. Many throng to Mumbai to get tailor-made clothes, while outfits made from khadi, a type of home-spun cotton, are also popular.
Mumbai (Bombay) Food And Drink
Food In Mumbai (Bombay)
Mumbai style Veggie Burgers with a fried potato fritter, dressed with green chutney and sprinkled with garlic chutney. It’s delicious, filling and easy to make if you prepare the chutneys ahead.
Bhelpuri is made from puffed rice and sev (a fried snack shaped like thin noodles made from besan flour) mixed with potatoes, onions, chat masala and chutney and a mixture of other fried snacks as the base of the snack.
In Mumbai the pani puri filling consists mainly of ragda, sometimes moong sprouts and sometimes boiled potatoes. Personally I love ragda, moong sprouts, potatoes and some chopped onion as filling. My mother makes lovely pani puris at home.
Sev puri is essentially made of crispy papdi (flat puri) which is loaded with diced potatoes, chickpeas, onions and various types of chutneys. Some popular chutneys used include spicy mint, sweet-sour tamarind, chili and garlic.
Buttered slice of white bread is slathered with a thick green sandwich chutney, then filled with sliced boiled potatoes, beets, cucumber, tomatoes & onions. A generous sprinkle of sandwich masala goes at the end, followed by another buttered & chutney smeared bread. Ta-da! Your basic Bombay sandwich is ready.
Ragda Patties are a popular Mumbai street food snack that is loved by everyone that tries them. It is also referred to as Ragda Pattice and consists of pan-fried crispy potato patties served with a dried peas curry and a variety of sweet, spicy and tangy chutneys – plus creamy yogurt, ground spices, and crunchy sev.
Pav is always made with maida or all-purpose flour. However, at home, we can make these small bread rolls with whole wheat flour (atta) or other flours. I also make a Pav Recipe with 100% whole wheat flour. You could opt to make Pav with equal portions of both all-purpose flour and whole wheat flour.
An omelette (also spelled omelet) is a dish made from eggs, fried with butter or oil in a frying pan. It is a common practice for an omelette to include fillings such as chives, vegetables, mushrooms, meat (often ham or bacon), cheese, onions.
Kulfi is a frozen dessert made with pure full fat milk, sugar and a flavoring ingredient like cardamoms or saffron. Sometimes cream (malai), chopped nuts or fruit purees are also added to it for flavor and richness.
Made of crushed ice in the shape of a ball, dipped in flavoured syrups, it is considered the best way to beat the heat during summer months. Quick and easy to make, this frozen delight is so tempting that it takes only a few minutes to bring out the child in everyone.
To make a supple and tasty kebab, chunks of succulent marinated meat, such as chicken, mutton, or cattle, are grilled or roasted. The marinade, which is often a combination of yogurt, spices, and herbs, lends a deep flavor to the meat, making it a favorite option among kebab fans.
Drink In Mumbai (Bombay)
Cutting Chai is a strong, milky tea that is popular all over Mumbai.
Falooda is a popular dessert drink that is made by combining milk, ice cream, vermicelli, basil seeds, and rose syrup.
Mumbai Lassi is a sweet and creamy drink made from yogurt, sugar, and spices. It is often served with a dollop of cream and is a popular drink during the hot summer months. 6. Nimbu Pani: Nimbu Pani is a simple and refreshing drink made from lemon juice, water, and sugar.
The ultimate expression of the quintessentially classic Gin & Tonic. Orris root and Angelica bring Bombay Sapphire its floral earthiness and enhance the bright, fresh flavours of citrus and juniper.
Mumbai Lassi is a sweet and creamy drink made from yogurt, sugar, and spices. It is often served with a dollop of cream and is a popular drink during the hot summer months. 6. Nimbu Pani: Nimbu Pani is a simple and refreshing drink made from lemon juice, water, and sugar.
To make piyush, Shrikhand (a thick yogurt based dessert) and Buttermilk are whisked with the flavorings of nutmeg and cardamom. The nutmeg especially imparts a great deal of flavor and aroma to Piyush is a smooth and creamy drink popular.
Tea is indias national drink.
Restaurants in Mumbai (Bombay)
Mumbai is India’s foodie capital, and you can find almost anything on the menu, from American burgers and Japanese sushi to Goan curries, Gujarati thalis and Mangalorean seafood. Appropriately for India’s capital of finance, fashion and film, Mumbai is also home to some of India’s most exclusive top end restaurants, although prices are seldom easy on the wallet.
Mumbai’s upmarket eateries have comprehensive lists of wine, beer, cocktails and other alcoholic beverages, but as with the rest of India, imported alcohol comes at a price. Locally produced beer, wine and spirits are widely available and very drinkable, as well as being cheaper than imported brands. Cheaper restaurants generally don’t serve alcohol owing to expensive liquor licences.
The restaurants below have been grouped into three different pricing categories:
Expensive (over Rs3,000)
Moderate (Rs1,000 to Rs3,000)
Cheap (up to Rs1,000)
These prices are for a three-course meal for one, including half a bottle of house wine or equivalent, tax and service. If service is not included, a 10% tip is welcomed.
Expensive
- Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra
Cuisine: Indian
Imaginative, upmarket Indian fare and clever cocktails presented in a fashionable environment. this is South Mumbai’s most fashionable restaurant. Masala innovative menu blends modern indian innovation with a dose of local flavour, and the wine list is extensive and impressive. The décor is slick (the Black Lounge is particularly chic) and the split-level roof-terrace is the place to eat in cooler months. Booking essential.
Address: First International Financial Centre, Bandra East, Mumbai.
Telephone: +91 84 5290 0900
Website: www.masalalibrary.co.in
Cuisine: Mediterranean
This swanky restaurant serves excellent Italian food in a magical setting. Dine at teak tables in a garden that’s peppered with lazy daybeds and white wicker chairs. Come evening, the whitewashed villa flickers in candlelight. The extensive menu includes dishes such as lobster ceviche, rosemary roast lamb and homemade pastas.
Address: Union Park, 14 Nargis Dutt Road, Mumbai.
Telephone: +91 72 0847 8228
Website: www.olivebarandkitchen.com
Cuisine: Japanese
Presided over by Chef Masaharu Morimoto from New York’s Nobu restaurant, Wasabi serves up world-class Japanese food in sleek surroundings at the Taj Mahal Hotel. With top ingredients such as Chilean sea bass, oyster foie gras and superb tuna on the menu, dining at this swish restaurant doesn’t come cheap.
Address: Apollo Bunder, Taj Mahal Hotel, Mumbai.
Telephone: +91 22 6665 3366
Website: www.tajhotels.com
Moderate
Cuisine: North Indian
Situated near the High Court, Khyber swims with the rich flavours of the Northwest Frontier. Styled like an Afghan palace, the food is some of the best in town. Most dishes are cooked on the tava or in the tandoor oven and Khyber is famous for its house speciality, raan, a whole leg of slow-cooked lamb. Vegetarians should look elsewhere.
Address: Fort, 145 M.G. Road, Mumbai.
Telephone: +91 22 4039 6666
Website: www.khyberrestaurant.com
Cuisine: Thai
India has always had something of a love affair with Thai food, and chef Ian Kittichai has upped the game with his signature restaurant at the InterContinental Hotel. Half of the dishes at this award-winning restaurant are vegetarian, to the great satisfaction of the many Indian vegetarians who dine here.
Address: Marine Drive, InterContinental Hotel, Mumbai.
Telephone: +91 22 3987 9999
Website: www.ihg.com
Cuisine: South Indian Seafood
Tucked away on a back street, Trishna serves what many regard as the best seafood in town – and this in a city brimming with seafood restaurants. Trishna specialises in Mangalorean delicacies and its signature dish, butter pepper garlic king crab, is every bit as delicious as it sounds. Other popular mains include Hyderabad-style pomfret and spicy kolhapuri prawns.
Address: Fort, Birla Mansion, Sai Baba Marg, Mumbai.
Telephone: +91 22 2270 3213
Cheap
Cuisine: North Indian
This may just be the most popular street food stand in South India. Every night, an army of staff prepare fresh and delicious grilled seekh kebabs and other grilled treats to a horde of drive-by and walk-in diners. It’s only open for dinner and you can either grab your food to go or sit at one of the packed street-side tables.
Address: Bademiya, Tulloch Rd, Apollo Bandar, Colaba, Mumbai.
Telephone: +91 22 2265 5657
Website: www.bademiya.com
Cuisine: South Indian Seafood
Rivalling the famous Trishna, Mahesh Lunch Home is the place to come for excellent Mangalorean seafood on a budget. The appetite-inducing menu is packed with seafood staples such as tandoori pomfret, fish roe masala and rawas tikka (marinated white salmon), as well as delicious local mud crabs.
Address: Fort, 8B Cowasji Patel Street, Mumbai.
Telephone: +91 22 2202 3965
Website: www.maheshlunchhome.com
Cuisine: Family
Informal option whipping up meat, seafood, rice & noodle dishes for takeaway or delivery. A handy retreat from the chaos of the Mangaldas and Crawford markets, Deluxe Restaurant is a popular lunch stop for frazzled shoppers, with huge vegetarian thalis that come with bottomless top-ups of curry, rice and rotis. The menu also has lighter plates for smaller appetites. In case you are hoping for a family dinner or lunch, you can come here as we are the best family restaurant in Kurla.
Address: Kural West, Lal Bahadur Shastri Marg, Mumbai.
Telephone: +91 98 9212 8085
Website: www.deluxerestaurant.in
Mumbai (Bombay) Nightlife
Mumbai is India’s nightlife capital, with bars and clubs that could hold their own with the best in Singapore or Hong Kong, catering to the city’s giants of fashion, finance and film.
Dress codes apply in Mumbai and it pays to make an effort; after all you might well be rubbing shoulders with the cream of Bollywood. Some clubs operate a couples-only policy (look for signs saying no ‘stags’, the local term for single men) and many charge a steep entrance fee.
All the 5-star hotels have bars, where you can drink in air-conditioned and pricey seclusion, but there are also some more relaxed, less contrived watering holes.
The most popular drinks are beer and spirits (particularly whisky), but Indian wine (produced in the highlands of Maharashtra) has a growing following. For listings, check out the website for:
Time Out Mumbai ( Website: www.timeout.com ) and the daily English-language newspaper Mid-day, which has up-to-the-minute entertainment listings.
Bars in Mumbai (Bombay)
Four Seasons know how to do things in style, and the rooftop bar at the their Mumbai hotel certainly delivers. As the sun dips over Back Bay, Aer’s sculpted tables are the best place to watch Marine Drive’s lights come on. Set on the 34th floor, the bar is cool as a sapphire pendant and very exclusive, so wear your best Ritu Kumar kurta.
Address: Worli, 1/136 Dr E. Moses Road, Mumbai.
Telephone: +91 22 2481 8000
Website: www.fourseasons.com
Not quite as painfully cool as Aer, but still perfectly poised for the Marine Drive sunset, Dome creates a miniature version of Rome atop the Intercontinental Hotel, with long loungers, potted foliage and a Pantheon-style dome. Come for cocktails in front of spectacular displays of colour over the Arabian Sea.
Address: InterContinental Hotel, 135 Marine Drive, Mumbai.
Telephone: +91 22 3987 9999
Website: www.ihg.com
This Bangalore brewery replaced Lower Parel’s blueFrog a few years back. Brightly lit décor and an efficient layout bestow the space with a welcoming vibe. On the menu is a great selection of pocket-friendly beers, ranging from a Hefeweizen to an IPA that can be paired with the food served on-premise: wood-fired pizzas and fun appetisers like haleem samosas, ghee roast prawns and more. If you want to secure yourself a table, make sure to get here before 7pm.
Address: 100 Feet Rd, Near Drops Total Spirites, Mumbai.
Telephone: +91 90 1971 3388
Website: www.toit.in
Clubs in Mumbai (Bombay)
With a floor-to-ceiling alcohol tower, angel statues seeming to soar down from the sky, multicoloured neon dragonflies on the walls and plenty of plush upholstery, Dragonfly Experience certainly screams grandeur. Pan-Asian bites pair beautifully with the elegant cocktails from British mixologist Richard Hargroves (founder of London School of Bartending). Come for the food, stay for the party.
Address: Navpada, Vile Parle East, Andheri Mumbai.
Telephone: +91 86 5759 8230
Website: www.dragonflyexperience.in
This colossal nightclub offers palatial décor dripping with chandeliers and spangles and plenty of space to strut your stuff. Formerly owned by actress Shilpa Shetty, it is still in the hands of Bollywood royalty and attracts a glam crowd who like to dress up and show off. Expect the odd big EDM name.
Address: Grand Hyatt, Siddharath Nagar, Santacruz East, Mumbai.
Telephone: +91 87 5093 9495
Website: www.toyroomclub.in
It’s safe to call Kitty Su, inside The Lalit hotel in Mumbai, a wild child. Expect a red carpet welcome, multiple lounge areas boasting different décors and a tucked-away bar. Don’t forget to try the signature cocktails, the LaLiT Cocktail and Cold Chai.
Address: Navpada, Marol, Andheri East, Mumbai.
Telephone: +91 77 7705 2330
Website: www.kittysu.com
Live music in Mumbai (Bombay)
This unassuming bar found down a bylane in Worli village is one of the city’s most highly-regarded venues for drinking and dancing. The cocktail bar has an elegant ‘Great Gatsby’ vibe, with a bar menu of pre-prohibition era cocktails and a food menu of inventive small plates. Weekends are high-energy with good music and a great vibe – just make sure you dress the part.
Address: Thadani House 329/A , Mumbai.
Telephone: +91 93 2696 5643
Website: www.socialoffline.in
Music and Dance in Mumbai (Bombay)
- National Centre for Performing Arts
Mumbai’s National Centre for Performing Arts, a huge complex of five theatres, puts on a widely varying programme of plays, musicals and dance, including the occasional English-language performance. Many shows are free, particularly if they have strong cultural merit.
Address: Nariman Point, NCPA Marg, Mumbai.
Telephone: +91 22 6622 3724
Website: www.ncpamumbai.com
A striking piece of 1970s architecture, the Nehru Centre Auditorium regularly stages theatre, dance and music, alongside its normal programme of daytime shows and exhibitions. Its onsite art gallery promotes the work of young artists.
Address: Worli, Dr Annie Besant Road, Mumbai.
Telephone: +91 98 1989 3994
Website: www.nehrucentremumbai.in
