Montevideo Travel Guide
Perched on a peninsula jutting out into the River Plate, Uruguay’s capital city, Montevideo, has been captivating visitors with its blend of Old and New World charm for centuries.
Elegant, if slightly down at heel, the narrow cobblestoned streets, historic buildings and atmospheric plazas of Montevideo’s Ciudad Vieja (Old Town) cluster along the banks of the extensive estuary and sit across from the Argentine capital of Buenos Aires.
Neighbours they may be, identical they are not: Uruguayans blend old-fashioned formality with laidback South American style, far removed from the openly effusive Argentineans. Locals may seem reserved at first, but things are changing rapidly in a city where former President, Jose Mujica, authorised same sex marriage and legalised marijuana.
Montevideo isn’t a pot smoking paradise, but visitors will find a relaxed pace of life. Its countless pavement cafés, particularly along the pedestrianised Peatonal Sarand, are ideal for watching the world stroll by as you sip a café con leche (milky coffee).
But don’t get too lost in just looking – Montevideo is about exploring. To the east, the modern city centre has wide, tree-lined avenues and art deco buildings that stand next to soaring skyscrapers; while its alluring seafront promenade, La Rambla, stretches to the greenery of Parque Rodo.
Near the airport, the upmarket Carrasco neighbourhood is home to the city’s most beautiful beaches, some of which could capture Copacabana’s crown if the secret got out. Then there’s the art and literature; Montevideo gave us masters like Juan Manuel Blanes and Joaquín Torres García, not to mention the writer Eduardo Galeano.
The annual Montevideo Carnival, meanwhile, cannons out each spring like a colourful celebration of existence. This raunchy, Rio-style fiesta sets the standard for the city’s infallible nightlife, which gyrates from rowdy discos to fiery tango bars. Still, there’s room for theatre, plus a fledgling foodie scene built on giant, mouth-watering steak sandwiches.
As with most of Latin America, dinner and dancing start late and end even later, so you’ll have all day to discover Montevideo, the pearl of Uruguay.
Created as a result of a Spanish-Portuguese spat, Montevideo’s hasn’t enjoyed a smooth ride.
Unhappy about Portuguese advances south from Brazil, Buenos Aires governor Bruno Mauricio de Zabala founded Montevideo in 1726. The Portuguese had set up a town across the water from Buenos Aires in 1680, and it was time to boot them out.
The town was initially home to soldiers and a handful of Spanish immigrants, but gradually grew into a vital trading base.
In 1807, the Brits swanned into town, occupying the city for a few months until the Spanish snatched it back.
And so continued a series of occupations and skirmishes, with Spanish, Argentine, Portuguese and Brazilian forces taking it in turns to control the city.
Uruguay won independence from Brazil and Argentina in 1828, with Montevideo as the capital.
But it wasn’t all plain sailing from there. Squabbling rival political factions couldn’t find common ground and a civil war ensued. Montevideo was subjected to a nine-year siege from 1843 to 1851.
While an Argentine-Uruguayan army besieged the city, French and British forces were busy supplying the city via sea. Montevideo’s port ended up doing rather well.
When the siege ended, Montevideo expanded and prospered, implementing important infrastructure projects throughout the 19th century.
By the early 20th century, Spanish and Italian immigrants were arriving in droves, with new neighbourhoods popping up left, right and centre.
During WWII, it was in neutral Montevideo that a German captain chose to scuttle his ship, Admiral Graf Spee, rather than risk the lives of his crew.
By the 1950s, the city was in decline. From the late 1960s and throughout the dictatorship of the 1970s and 1980s, political violence rocked Montevideo.
Democracy was restored in 1980, but a banking crisis in 2002 caused untold economic damage. Since then, Montevideo has steadily got back on its feet.
Avenida 18 de Julio is named after the date of the Uruguay’s first constitution, 18 July 1830.
Montevideo hosted the inaugural FIFA World Cup in 1930.
In the annual Mercer Quality of Living Survey, Montevideo is regularly named the Latin American city with the best quality of life.
The only time you really don’t want to be in Montevideo is in the depths of
winter (July to September) when cold winds come off of the South Atlantic Sea and frequent rain makes for a trying experience. The rest of the year, the city’s climate is mild with rain interspersed throughout the calendar. Many visitors enjoy the city’s festive beach scene during the
summer months of January and February.
Getting around Montevideo
Montevideo is relatively small, so getting around is simple, especially if you speak some Spanish. Montevideo buses are cheap and frequent, but often packed at peak periods. Plan your route carefully as bus stops are not signposted particularly well. Various companies operate in the city, many along very similar routes. The main operators are
COETC
Telephone: +598 2508 7871
Website: www.coetc.com
COME
Telephone: +598 2354 3466
Website: www.come.com.uy
Cutsca
Telephone: +598 2211 7774
Website: www.cutcsa.com.uy
Raincoop
Telephone: +598 2506 6005
Website: www.raincoop.com
UCOT
Telephone: +598 2508 0003
Website: www.ucot.net
Buses run from around 0500 until 2300 and all fares are paid in cash, per journey. There is no underground rail network in the city.
Although the city has plenty of taxis, fares are relatively expensive compared to other forms of local transport. You can hail Montevideo’s black-and-yellow taxis on the street or reserve them over the phone with
Celeritas
Telephone: 1919 in Uruguay only.
Radio Taxi Punta Gorda
Telephone: 1771 in Uruguay only.
And many others. Always ensure the meter is working before you take off.
For longer journeys, it may be cheaper to reserve a remis (private) taxi from:
Aba Transportes
Telephone: +598 2200 5176 always agree a fixed fare.
Although roads tend to be potholed and badly signposted, driving in Montevideo is fairly straightforward because the city’s inhabitants tend to drive slowly and often stop for pedestrians. Passersby are usually willing to help out with directions too.
You can hire bikes from
Orange Bike
Address: Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 9136 6377
Website: www.orangebike.com.uy
Rent a Bike
Address: Punta del Este, Departamento de Maldonado.
Telephone: +598 9299 9299
Website: www.rentabike.uy
The friendly staff members, who are cycling enthusiasts themselves, can also arrange guided tours. One of the best places to go riding is along the riverfront Rambla that runs along the city’s southern shoreline, and the Parque Rodó, to the east of Montevideo.
Benefit from Travoley’s great deals available all year round for a seamless car hire experience in Montevideo. Travel your way by choosing from our collection of brand new cars. Whether you are looking for car rental in Montevideo as part of a vacation, or renting a car for a special event, you will be sure to find a car to suit your needs from our wide range of economy and luxury models.
In order to hire a car, drivers must be at least 21 years old, depending on company policy. All drivers must carry an International Driving Permit.
Our simple booking system makes it easy to reserve online before you go, offering flexible short- and long-term rental, all at great prices with no hidden charges, so when you arrive all that’s left is to discover the best of this exciting city.
In partnership with Get Your Guide
Book popular activities in Montevideo
Things to see in Montevideo
Attractions
- Museo Nacional de Artes Visuales (National Museum of Visual Arts)
At the heart of the Parque Rodo quarter, with its park dedicated to Uruguayan writer Jose Enrique Rodo, this lovingly curated museum is home to the country’s most significant collection of Uruguayan visual art. Opened in 1911, the Museo Nacional de Artes Visuales’ most important collection includes work by the modernist painter Pedro Figari (whose unique style influenced many Latin American artists) and the celebrated portrait artist, Juan Manual Blanes. There are also several exhibition halls housing national and international exhibitions throughout the year, as well as an art library with over 7,000 books that draws scholars from around the globe.
Address: 11300 Montevideo, Departamento de Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 2711 6054
Opening times: Tues-Sun 13:00-20:00.
Website: www.mnav.gub.uy
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
Benefiting from legislation that prevents any buildings being erected that block La Rambla’s stunning sea views, the city’s panoramic promenade is the best place in town to amble and enjoy the sunshine. Backed by a string of white-sand beaches, it’s a great place to sit with a picnic and watch locals taking their afternoon stroll. Hugging some 20km (12.5 miles) of the city’s coastline, this striking promenade is also the ideal spot to relax with a drink as the sun sets over the Río de la Plata.
Address: La Rambla, Montevideo.
Opening times: Daily 24 hours.
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
Born in Montevideo, the artist Joaquín Torres García went on to study in Spain alongside Picasso and Gaudí, and his own work draws strongly from both artists. This museum, dedicated to the artist himself, was created by his wife Manolita Pina Torres after her husband’s death in 1949. It has three floors packed with his cubist and abstract art, as well as artefacts and writings related to his life. A further four floors are used for educational activities and art workshops, and there is a basement theatre that hosts regular plays by national and international playwrights.
Address: Sarandí 683, Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 2915 6544
Opening times: Mon-Sat 10:00-18:00.
Website: www.torresgarcia.org.uy
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
- Museo del Gaucho y de la Moneda (Gaucho and Money Museum)
Housed in a 19th-century mansion near to the Plaza Independencia, this quirky little museum is devoted to cowboys and coins. It offers interesting displays relating to the gaucho (South American cowboy), including items of their distinctive clothing and the fine silverwork used to engrave mate (a South American caffeine drink) cups. There is also a collection of ancient South American coins and an exhibition on the history of Uruguay’s currency. Most of the information is in Spanish, but guided are available in English if you contact the museum several weeks in advance.
Address: Avenida 18 de Julio 998, Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 2900 8764
Opening times: Mon-Fri 10:00-17:00.
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
- Mercado del Puerto (Port Market)
Although prices on this historic market have been rising due to the influx of wealthy passengers from increasing numbers of cruise ships docking at the port close by, this elaborate iron structure, which was once the city’s trains station, is still home to the most atmospheric area of Montevideo. Dating back to 1868, the market is filled with local crafts, food stalls and restaurants, and every afternoon and at weekends, musicians and other performers join the throng. Take a big appetite with you to savour one of the huge racks of barbecued meat offered by the market’s Parilla restaurants, as you sit in comfort and watch the crowds flow by.
Address: Piedras 237, Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 2916 8410
Opening times: Daily 10:00-17:00.
Website: www.mercadodelpuerto.com
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
As the centre of the city’s power, Montevideo’s main square is home to several of the city’s most venerable buildings. Those worth visiting include the imposing, colonial-style Estevez Palace, which was owned by the Estevez family, before it was acquired by the government in the late 19th century, and the Artigas Mausoleum, the last resting place of Uruguayan hero Jose Artigas.
Address: Plaza Independencia, Montevideo.
Opening times: Daily 24 hours.
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
An upmarket suburb bordering the green and pleasant Parque Rodo, the Pocitos barrio is renowned for its historic architecture as well as its wide swathe of sandy beaches, including the Playa Pocitos. The beach is a popular with the city’s sport lovers who come to play football or participate in a range of nautical sports. Historic buildings of interest include the ornate Casa Darnaud, home to the Russian Embassy, and the Escuela Brasil school building. When the sun goes down, this bustling neighbourhood comes to life with its upscale bars, classy restaurants and lively nightlife.
Address: Pocitos, Montevideo.
Opening times: Daily 24 hours.
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
Montevideo’s fun and feisty carnival, said to be one of the world’s longest, only comes round once a year. Luckily, this museum gives an excellent overview of the colourful annual event, which is like a scaled down version of the crazy Rio Carnival. If you aren’t lucky enough to join in the 40 days of festivities, this museum is jam-packed with costumes, masks, floats from past parades and an evocative photographic exhibition documenting the evolution of celebrations. This stop off provides an excellent and evocative tribute to the carnival, which has been running for more than 100 years.
Address: Rambla 25 de Agosto de 1825 218, Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 2916 5493
Opening times: Wed-Sun 11:00-17:00.
Website: www.museodelcarnaval.org
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
- Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes Juan Manuel Blanes
Founded in 1930, this national art museum is dedicated to the work of realist painter Juan Manuel Blanes. An illustrator for one of the city’s leading newspapers, Blanes began working as a portrait painter in the late 1850s and his depiction of celebrated personalities (including Argentine war hero General Jose de Saint Martin) as well as terrible national events, such as the Yellow fever epidemic in the 1870s, earned him nationwide acclaim. Housed in a 19th-century villa, the museum also displays work by other important Uruguayan artists.
Address: Avenida Millán 4015, Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 2336 2248
Opening times: Tues-Sun 12:00-18:00.
Website: www.blanes.montevideo.gub.uy
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
- Museo Romántico (Romantic Museum)
Housed in an opulent merchant’s residence built in 1830, this fascinating museum is the fitting site for an eclectic collection of artefacts that evoke the life and times of the local elite who lived here in the 19th and 20th centuries. Filled with period furnishings, clothes and personal effects of the city’s high society, the Museo Romantico offers a fascinating insight into a time when Montevideo enjoyed a period of growth and expansion from 18:30 and 19:00.
Address: 25 de Mayo 434, Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 2915 5361
Opening times: Wed-Sun 12:00-18:00.
Website: www.museohistorico.gub.uy
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
Tourist Offices
Address: José Ellauri 350, 11300 Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 1850 7004
Opening times: Mon-Sat 10:00-17:00.
Website: www.municipioch.montevideo.gub.uy
The Government office publishes an English-language guide and gives out free maps of Montevideo as well as information about other areas of Uruguay.
It’s open Monday to Friday from 09:30-16:00, The recently launched Uruguay Natural Now
Website: www.uruguaynatural.com provides a wealth of information about the city’s events and activities in English.
Things to do in Montevideo
Uruguayans love their literature; join them with their noses in a book at
Libreria Puro Verso
Telephone: +598 2901 6429
Website: www.libreriapuroverso.com
Reflected in a series of glorious art deco stained glass panels, the piles and piles of books in the shop invite study, while the frivolous upstairs restaurant is the place to chill and chat.
- Have a sundowner in Mercado del Puerto
As the sun starts to set, sip one of the city’s signature medio y medio (half dry white wine, half sparkling wine) vinos at Cafe Roldos, Rambla 25 de Agosto de 1825. Affording views over Montevideo’s bustling port, this legendary drinking hole has been the meeting place for the city’s intelligentsia since it opened in 1886.
- Join locals enjoying afternoon cortado
The afternoon break, merienda, is an important tradition in Montevideo and nothing is more central to it than a good cortado (coffee with a dash of milk). For an atmospheric coffee shop packed with old furniture and dangling chandeliers, head to
Cafe Brasilero
Telephone: +598 2917 2035
Website: www.cafebrasilero.com.uy a cultural landmark in Montevideo since 1877.
Originating in Argentina, mate is a ubiquitous, warm herbal drink that is wildly popular in Montevideo. Hang out with the hip crowd, who sip the bitter beverage along the Pocitos promenade, by buying a drinking gourd, bombilla (metal straw) and some dried yerba mate leaves from the La Rambla shops.
- Watch candombe dancers in the street
Candombe is a style of music and dance that originated from African slaves who immigrated to Uruguay from Argentina in the 19th century. The colourful, carnival-style choreography is infectious. For those in Malvín at midday on Sundays, it’s easy to get caught up in the brightly decorated costumes and drummed rhythms.
Montevideo tours and excursions
Montevideo tours
Experience some of the greatest examples of Uruguayan culture in a safe and affordable way. Leaving from Independence Square at 1100 from Monday to Friday, and 2pm on Saturday, the walking tour concentrates on the historical parts of Montevideo’s old city, visiting the colonial plazas and grand old buildings.
Website: www.freewalkingtour.com.uy
Conducted by British-born Liz and Richard Cowley, the three-hour tour provides fascinating insight into the history of the capital: the Spanish colonial era, the British invasions, the fight for independence and the emergence of modern Uruguay. Tours can be enjoyed by walking or taking a chauffeured car, minibus or bus. Pre-booking is essential.
Telephone: +598 9969 2757
Website: www.realenglishtours.com
Montevideo excursions
A town frozen in time with 17th-century buildings and cars from the 1950s, Colonia del Sacramento’s cobbled, colonial-era streets are now UNESCO protected since receiving World Heritage status. In the town’s historic centre, secluded courtyards reveal quaint cafés, bustling markets and some of the most prized restaurants in the region.
Telephone: +598 4522 3700
Less than half-an-hour’s drive outside Montevideo’s city limits, the wine growing regions of Uruguay are fast becoming a major attraction for international visitors. This growing appetite for Uruguayan grape is no better experienced than with a visit to family-run Bouza Winery, where guided tours, wine tasting and a restaurant are available to enjoy from 0900-1900, Monday to Saturday.
Telephone: +598 2323 7491
Website: www.bodegabouza.com
Shopping in Montevideo
For such a small city, Montevideo offers a wealth of shopping opportunities. The larger shopping centres sell brand name items as well as woollen wear and locally produced ceramics; while the wide range of ferias (markets) in the capital peddle crafts, clothes and antiques.
Woollen textiles and wood crafts are good buys that also reflect Uruguay’s rural heritage. The shops around Plaza Independencia sell all types of leather, including rabbit, but do check the quality of both the material and the workmanship.
Manos del Uruguay
Website: www.manos.com.uy is a not-for-profit cooperative with outlets throughout the city. It combines contemporary design with traditional craftsmanship.
The Feria de Tristán Narvaja is a bustling Sunday street market that sprawls for several blocks, starting at the corner of Avenida 18 de Julio and Calle Tristán Narvaja. You’ll find everything from second-hand clothes to souvenirs to live animals (and much more) on sale. The Villa Biarritz Fair, until 1500 on Saturdays in Parque Zorilla de San Martín-Ellauri, is an atmospheric market selling local produce and handicrafts. Mercado de los Artesanos, at San José 1312, is another decent crafts market, open most days except Sunday.
Punta Carretas Shopping
Website: www.puntacarretas.com.uy at José Ellauri 350 was once a prison but is now the city’s largest shopping centre. It houses fashionable shops, a multiplex cinema and restaurants.
Montevideo Shopping Centre
Website: www.montevideoshopping.com.uy on Avenida Luis Alberto de Herrera was the city’s first shopping mall, with 180 shops to suit most tastes and budgets.
Shops in Montevideo are generally open Monday to Friday 09:00-19:00 and Saturday 09:00-13:00. Small shops tend to close at lunch and on Saturdays. Larger shopping malls and supermarkets are usually open all week, including evenings.
There are plenty of souvenirs to shop for in Montevideo, including highly-polished, semi-precious stones, leather goods and wood craft items. Yerba mate (a South American caffeine drink) mementos, such as delicately engraved bombilla straws (drinking straws), are particular favourites.
Non-Uruguayan residents can obtain a tax refund by requesting tax receipts when making purchases. Items must be purchased with a credit card. Upon departure, the receipts must be validated at Uruguayan Customs. The refund will then be made to the credit card.
Montevideo Food And Drink
Food In Montevideo
Grass-fed beef is a national favorite; you can’t say you’ve tried Uruguayan cuisine until you’ve experienced the asado, a feast of steak grilled over an open fire.
It is a thick, juicy steak with a sizable layer of fat on top. It comes in several varieties, namely the bife de chorizo angosto (thin sirloin) and the bife de chorizo mariposa (butterflied sirloin).
At the core of the traditional food of Uruguay is asado, a type of barbecue typically made with grilled beef, but it can also include other meats such as chicken and pork. It’s often accompanied by sausages like chorizo and morcilla (blood sausage), and chimichurri, a tangy green sauce.
Chivito, which can be translated as “little goat”, is Uruguay’s national dish. It’s a sandwich that consists of a sliced “churrasco” (grilled beef), melted mozzarella cheese, ham, bacon, tomatoes, lettuce, fried or hard-boiled eggs, and black or green olives.
It is usually made of pig’s blood, onions, and various spices and herbs such as nutmeg, ginger, and mace, all bound together with barley or, more commonly, oatmeal and then stuffed into tripe skins. The sausages are then boiled or baked, grilled or fried.
Dulce de leche, very popular in many Latin American countries, is a caramel-like spread made from sweetened condensed milk. It literally means “sweet of milk” in Spanish and has a sweet, creamy flavor.
Chaja was invented by Orlando Castellano, owner of a tearoom in Paysandú, Northern Uruguay in 1927. He prepared this very sweet concoction, invited his friend to try, who responded saying it was light and soft, just like the South American indigenous Chajá bird (also called silent screamer).
The name tortas fritas translates to “fried cakes” or “fried pies.” Though they resemble Native American fry bread, tortas fries are more like fried biscuits. Unlike fry bread, this dough is prepared with more fat (usually lard), like biscuit dough, but you can substitute vegetable shortening instead.
Capeletis a la Caruso is, without a doubt, Italian pasta at its best. These tender pasta pillows have a savory filling composed of beef, Parmesan cheese, ricotta, and eggs, and are complemented by Caruso sauce, a Uruguayan food invention made with mushrooms, ham, Parmesan cheese, and heavy cream.
Revuelto Gramajo (English: Gramajo Scramble) is a common hash dish in Argentine and Uruguayan cuisine consisting of fried julienned potatoes, ham and eggs. The dish can be adapted to use any ingredients the cook may have on hand, including peas, other fresh vegetables, fish, pork, and other meats.
It is a covered, jam-filled shortcrust pastry dish principally made from flour, sugar and egg. Common fillings include quince cheese, dulce de batata (sweet potato jam), dulce de leche, guava, or strawberry jam.
Drink In Montevideo
Uruguayan wines are of good quality, particularly reds of the tannat grape variety. Popular wine-based drinks include clericó (wine mixed with fruit juice) and medio y medio (half dry white wine and half sparkling wine).
A bitter tea of a native herb that’s extremely popular with locals. It is traditional for Uruguayans to have an afternoon tea, called yerba mate. This tea is also popular in Argentina and other South American countries. You can see locals walking around towns and cities carrying a thermos full of this special drink.
Mate or maté (/ˈmɑːteɪ/ MAH-tay, Spanish: [ˈmate], Portuguese: [ˈmatʃi]) is a traditional South American caffeine-rich infused herbal drink. It is also known as chimarrão or cimarrón, and ka’ay in Guarani.
A clear liquor made from sugarcane.
A grape based brandy with Italian origins.
Uruguayans love their whisky and even make their own, which is called Dunbar.
Restaurants in Montevideo
Traditionally big meat eaters, Montevideo’s dining scene has seen a minor revolution over the past few years, with local staples getting a fusion food makeover in many of the city’s top restaurants. For a filling feed, try one of the many eateries that offer a lunchtime set menu, which usually includes a three-course meal and a glass of wine. The Montevideo restaurants below have been handpicked by the guide author and are grouped into three pricing categories:
Expensive (over Ur$600)
Moderate (Ur$200 to Ur$600)
Cheap (up to Ur$200)
These Montevideo restaurant prices are for a three-course meal with half a bottle of house wine or cheapest equivalent per person, including service charges and taxes.
Expensive
Cuisine: International
Right up on the 25th floor of the Radisson Victoria Plaza Hotel, with stunning views via the restaurant’s floor to ceiling windows, Arcadia is a sparkling space decorated with crystal chandeliers and soft furnishings imported from Italy. Some may find it a little chintzy but the menu is adventurous and international, while the vistas of the bay and hills around Montevideo are breathtaking. Try the succulent pheasant terrine marinated in cognac or the confit of duck with strudel pastry.
Address: Radisson Victoria Plaza, Plaza Independencia, Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 2902 0111
Website: www.radisson.com
Cuisine: Sushi, seafood
Cafe Misterio has clung to its crown as one of the city’s most select eateries for almost a decade now, and with good reason. One of the first restaurants in town to serve sushi, this dimly-lit, orange deco eatery in the residential Carrasco district draws a posh crowd who come to sip champagne and sup on select dishes in the restaurant’s cosy ambiance. Try the sirloin with truffle sauce or Chilean sea bass with smoked potato pasta.
Address: Carrasco, Calle Costa Rica, Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 2601 8765
Website: www.cafemisterio.com.uy
Cuisine: Uruguayan
In a country of meat eaters, the capital’s best steak restaurant is well worth a visit. With large windows facing out onto the charming Puerto del Buceo fishing port, this chic bistro also has a spacious veranda where patrons can sit out and enjoy views over the lively harbour whilst enjoying specialities like espeto corrido (juicy chunks of meat on long skewers). La Casa Violeta has an amazing meat buffet too, which serves everything from sweetmeats to Swiss sausages. As an aside, there’s a well-stocked salad bar here as well.
Address: Av. Bolivia 1271, 11400 Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 2603 0367
Moderate
Cuisine: Seafood
For fresh seafood that’s served straight from the waves to the plate, you can’t do better than Es Mercat. This charismatic little restaurant is hidden along a side street in Montevideo’s old town, where its chef creates a daily menu based on the freshest finds from the Puerto del Buceo fish market. Depending what’s been caught, expect dishes like calamari spaghetti or the seafood gnocchi served with a rich porcini and coffee sauce.
Address: Ciudad Vieja, Colón esquina Piedras, Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 2917 0169
Website: www.esmercat.com.uy
Cuisine: Italian, Uruguayan
One of Montevideo’s most popular eating spots, this charming diner in the Pocitos district serves upmarket versions of local snack foods. Established back in 1978, it plates up the best pizzas in town, but also does well-loved, Uruguayan dishes including glazed chicken with pineapple, steak served with a creamy walnut sauce and a range of pastas and desserts. It gets packed at lunchtime so arrive early to get a table.
Address: Francisco A. Vidal 650, Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 2710 3601
Website: www.pizzeriatrouville.com.uy
Cuisine: Uruguayan
Any day is a good day to delight yourself with the incredible proposals from ALBERTO’S. We specialize in pizzas and grills, we have an international menu with a variety of salads, pastas, poultry, fish, desserts, coffee, wines and cocktails, with excellent presentation, good service and unbeatable prices, in an elegant and exclusive place.
Address: F. García Cortinas 2460, Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 2712 6655
Website: www.albertos.com.uy
Cheap
Cuisine: Uruguayan
Just opposite the Solis Theatre, this character-packed little restaurant is housed in a 19th-century building and is popular with the student crowd who come here to drink, flirt and chat. House specials include a range of healthy salads, carefully prepared vegetarian dishes and tasty soups, but the sirloin steak in a Tannat wine sauce is the top stomach filler.
Address: Bacacay 1306, Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 9844 1442
Website: www.bacacay.com.uy
Cuisine: Fast food
Wonderfully situated on La Rambla, this budget snack restaurant is a great place to watch the sun set over the river as you quaff a cool beer and munch on traditional local delights. Renowned for its chivito al pan, Uruguay’s hefty traditional meat sandwich, El Tinkal’s specialities include a luscious grilled beef blockbuster, where the sandwich is packed with slices of beef then smothered with tomatoes, mozzarella, pickles and mayonnaise.
Address: Dr Emilio Frugoni 853, Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 2418 4705
Website: www.tinkal.com.uy
Cuisine: Uruguayan
The best value food in Montevideo has to be the traditional chivito (steak sandwich). These hefty stomach-fillers are readily available around town, but if you want to try one with a difference head for La Paponita, an atmospheric diner that serves a wide range of different chivitos. If you’re stuck on what to chose, grab a Canadian chivito where the steak is buried under mounds of thick cut bacon, boiled egg, cheese and lettuce. If you’ve got room, follow with the creamy Peach Melba ice cream.
Address: Cordón, Avenida 18 de Julio & Minas, Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 2408 4840
Montevideo Nightlife
Like most of Latin America, nightlife starts late in Montevideo, with locals eating dinner around 2200, clubbing at midnight and going home at 0400 or 0500. The city does not have the same breadth or depth of cosmopolitan clubs as Buenos Aires, but it does have a decent local bar and café scene; indeed, bars, cafés and restaurants tend to be rolled into one. Montevideo also has a rich cultural life, especially considering its size, but bear in mind that many performances are in Spanish only.
Bars in Montevideo
Originally a watering hole for the local fishermen, Café Bar Tabare opened its doors well over a century ago and rapidly became a meeting place for Montevideo’s creative people. If you’re after a celebrity endorsement, the renowned singer and activist Caetana Veloso drank here, as did celebrated Argentine musician Charly Garcia. Famed for its innovative take on regional cuisine, the scrumptious grilled salmon with couscous stuffed zucchini and their signature Tabare cake (made with both dark and white chocolate) keep the boho crowd coming back. Book in advance to secure a table.
Address: 154 José Luis Zorrilla De San Martín, Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 2712 3242
Website: www.bartabare.com
This hip bar along La Rambla is a favourite among the Montevideo ‘in crowd’. There are plenty of tables spilling out onto the pavement, ideal for looking out over the water or watching the crowds stroll by, but to really make the most of the atmosphere, pick a spot inside this dingy little watering hole among the walls covered with old album covers. While the Mexican food is excellent, the music is often as dated as the LPs that adorn the walls.
Address: Ciudadela 1182, 11100 Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 2904 3402
Website: www.laronda.com.uy
For a hearty dose of Irish hospitality in Montevideo, The Shannon hits all the right notes. One of the most popular bars in the city, this is a great place to meet up with the expat crowd. There’s a regular band of Uruguayans who frequent the spit and sawdust of the saloon, most of whom come to swig Guinness and envisage what life is like over in Europe. The bar hosts traditional Irish music most nights.
Address: Bartolomé Mitre Bartolomé Mitre 1318, Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 2916 9585
Website: www.theshannon.com.uy
Clubs in Montevideo
Belying its cheesy name, Baar Fun Fun is one of the best nightspots in Montevideo for live tango music and dancing. Stand near the cramped bar and make like the locals by ordering some sickly sweet uvita (a local wine-based drink) as you listen to live music. Founded way back in 1895, quite a few celebrities (including Canadian rock star Bryan Adams and actor Danny Glover) have come to this tiny bar to get some tango action. Arrive early because it gets crowded.
Address: Soriano 922, Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 2915 8005
Website: www.barfunfun.com
This trendy, spaceship-style disco, situated in the city’s World Trade Center, is a surprisingly friendly club where locals and expats, hipsters and wannabes come to mingle and sweat it out to house and electronic music. The fairly steep entrance fee includes one free drink, but be warned: things don’t really get going until after 0200. Be prepared to dress smart as Lotus has a strict dress code, especially for men.
Address: Cr. Luis E Lecueder, Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 2628 1379
Website: www.lotus.com.uy
At IL Tempo, we firmly believe that music, dancing and fun should be enjoyed by everyone without any worry or hassle. We want all of our visitors to feel comfortable and safe, which is why we have established anti-harassment policies that we are very proud of. Here at our location, we do not tolerate any type of harassment. Whatever your gender, sexual orientation, ethnicity, age, or any other characteristic that makes you unique, you are welcome and respected. We strive to create an inclusive and friendly environment so you can enjoy music and dance without worry.
Address: Av. Gonzalo Ramírez, Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 9769 9055
Website: www.iltempo.com.uy
Live music in Montevideo
Another world class performance space, Auditorio del Sodre, is a vast concert venue whose excellent acoustics and innovative programming have earned it much acclaim. The auditorium has several different presentation spaces which host an eclectic range of concerts, films and modern ballet productions. It also has a charming little café where you can mingle and sip coffee (or something stronger) between performances.
Address: Andes 1459, 11100 Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 2900 7084
Website: www.sodre.gub.uy
Created in homage to popular Uruguayan musician Alfredo Zitarossa, this classy concert hall is housed a 1920s building that was once home to the city’s Rex Cinema. Sala Zitarossa still has several of the original stained glass windows in place, and ever since the venue opened in 1999, a host of international acts have whirled through its doors. This is the best spot in town to catch world class performances that range from flamenco dancing to reggae shows.
Address: 18 de Julio 1012, Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 2901 7303
Website: www.salazitarrosa.montevideo.gub.uy
Culture in Montevideo
Overlooking the monumental Plaza Independencia, Montevideo’s oldest and most august theatre venue, Teatro Solís, has been hosting opera, dance and concert performances since 1856. Even the first ever Uruguayan opera, La Parisina by Tomas Giribaldi, opened here in 1878. Completely refurbished in the late 1990s with the help of French architect Philippe Starck, this fabulous entertainment space is the city’s cultural heart. You can visit this venue, which still retains much of its Old World elegance, with a backstage tour, but it’s best to come and watch world class productions, which are still held here today.
Address: Reconquista esq, Bartolomé Mitre, Montevideo.
Telephone: +598 1950 3323
Website: www.teatrosolis.org.uy
