Marseille Travel Guide
Built on multiculturalism, revolution and a Mediterranean climate,
Marseille is one of Europe’s most intriguing metropolises. Backdropped by the white limestone cliffs of the Calanques, its serene setting is at odds with the Arabic-style backstreets of the city centre and the boisterous bartering at the fish market.The hub of
Marseille is the Vieux-Port, a harbour with some 2,600 years of history, while adjacent neighbourhoods such as Le Panier and Belsunce still offer up warrens of washing-webbed lanes, perfect for exploring on foot or by bike.Book Accommodation The tree-lined central avenue of La Canebière crackles with activity day and night, while a short ferry ride offshore reveals Marseille’s other face – the Iles du Frioul, a rocky archipelago perfect for walkers and bird-spotters.There are some hugely diverting museums and cultural sites back in the city centre, but a major part of Marseille’s draw is that it doesn’t cater solely for highbrow visitors. If the notion of settling down on a busy café terrace and watching the world go by over a glass of wine sounds appealing, you’ll be well served.For every dose of postcard classicism there’s a splash of something funkier – a 20ft-tall (6m) metal giraffe here, a 15-strong band of buskers there. Nevertheless, you don’t have to look far for classical architecture, whether its the Puget brothers designed La Vieille Charité (a 17th century almshouse that now houses the archaeological museum) or the crenelated towers of the Abbaye de St Victor, which conceal 5th century catacombs.That this side of the city is so often overlooked is in part due to its historical significance as a major port and as the gateway to
France’s former colony Algeria, both of which have combined to make the city extraordinarily cosmopolitan.Today, the city’s unrivalled music and fashion industries add a dynamic flavour to the multi-ethnic mix that is layered over what is at heart, a truly
French city.
Key factsPopulation: 1470000
Latitude: 43.293683
Longitude: 5.372485
Although it may not seem that way today, Marseilles is one of the oldest cities in France and began life in 600BC when it was founded by a group of seafaring Greeks.Places in
Marseille Airports Independent until 100BC, it suffered grievously from backing an opponent of Julius Caesar and, like the rest of France, was absorbed into the Roman Empire. Known as Massilia under Roman rule, the end of Empire brought a series of different rulers including the Visigoths and Emperor Charlemagne. The latter granted
Marseille civic power and ushered it into a boom that lasted several centuries.But the good times were not to last and the city was ravaged by the Angevins, bubonic plague and finally the Aragonese in the 13th and 14th centuries. Finally, in the 1480s, Marseille became part of
France, although not without clinging onto its independent character. Under the rule of the French kings, it became a key trading port, as well as France’s main military base on the Mediterranean.When the
French Revolution arrived, the city showed its independent character once again, sending 500 citizens to march on
Paris and composing the French National Anthem, La Marseillaise, in the process. Marseille ushered in a second boom with the birth of the French Republic.The city witnessed a huge growth in manufacturing and industry during the 19th century and was boosted again with the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869.During WWII, Marseille had the dubious distinction of being bombed by both the
German and Italian forces in 1940 and the Allies three years later. Badly damaged, much of the city was rebuilt in the 1950s, a project funded mainly by reparations from
Germany.There was a marked increase in immigration from the 1950s onwards as the so-called Pieds Noirs fled the fighting in Algeria, which has contributed in large part to the colourful reputation Marseille now enjoys.
Founded over 2,600 years ago, Marseille is the oldest city in France.
In 1794, the gold and silver relics in Saint Victor Abbey were melted down and turned into coins as the abbey was converted into a prison, warehouse and barracks.
Footballers Eric Cantona and Zinedine Zidane were both born in
Marseille.
Marseille has a mild coastal climate, boasting hot and sunny weather for a good proportion of the year (the city gets more than 3,000 hours of sunshine annually). The mistral (a strong north-westerly wind which generally brings clear skies and dry air) regularly blows across the city, especially in the
autumn, which makes the coastline popular for nautical activities.Come
summer (June to September), the city comes to life with all manner of events from dance and music to theatre and gay pride.
Getting around Marseille
The Régie des Transports de Marseille (RTM) provides public transport throughout the city and some of the suburbs. There are two metro lines (blue and red), over 80 bus lines and three tram lines. See the RTM website: www.rtm.fr for timetables.
You can buy tickets in any metro station, at the RTM office on 6 rue des Fabres, or at any shop displaying the RTM sign (blue on white) in their window. One-day and three-day passes are available.
There are also weekly passes and various money-saving cards for groups (ask for more information at any station). Tickets have to be validated, or you might incur an on-the-spot fine.
You can travel on the same ticket for up to one hour. You can save money by using a reloadable TRANSPASS card.
Major taxi providers in Marseille include:
Taxi Radio Marseille
telephone: +33 4 9102 2020
Taxi Tupp Radio
telephone: +33 4 9105 8080 Tips are welcome but not expected.
Driving in Marseille (as anywhere else in the south) can be a nerve-racking experience – drivers do not always abide by the Highway Code and have their own take on the right of way. The use of the horn is also popular. Try to take it all in your stride if you are behind the wheel getting angry is generally counterproductive.
Parking in Marseille has always been a problem, especially in those neighborhoods where narrow streets are the norm, and over the past few years this has become even more of a headache, so the advice is to leave the car behind if you can.
The city centre is compact enough to explore on foot (although you should be aware that popular sightseeing districts such as Le Panier involve some fairly steep slopes), and public transport links are good.
Bikes are available for hire from Marseille’s bikeshare scheme.
le vélo
telephone: +33 1 3079 2913
Website: www.levelo-mpm.fr
Self-service stations are dotted across the city, with seven-day memberships available. The first half-hour of any journey is free.
Pick up a car rental in Marseille to discover this beautiful city of culture at your own pace. As France’s oldest city, Marseille is home to some particularly fine historical monuments. Head along to Vieux Port, a small, ancient port that is still in operation, to buy fresh fish, enjoy the view over a coffee, take a trip on a sailing boat and look out for the stone commemorating the arrival of the Phocaeans in 600 BC.
With a Marseille car rental, you’ll be free to explore a few of the city’s most fascinating churches and architectural wonders, such as the imposing Basilica of Notre Dame de la Garde overlooking the sea, or Saint Victor, an ancient church that houses an unusual Black Madonna.
Ready to fall in love with a city steeped in history and bursting with modern attractions? Book a cheap car rental in Marseille.
The minimum age to hire a car in Marseille varies from 21 to 25 years. Drivers must possess a national driving licence, which they must have held for at least one year.
Reserving your Marseille car rental has never been easier, simply use our intuitive, three-step booking engine and make your reservation securely online.
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Things to see in Marseille
Attractions
- La Corniche J F Kennedy et les Plages
(The Corniche and the Beaches) La Corniche is a scenic road following the coastline from the Catalans to the enormous marble statue of David 3.5km (2 miles) further east. Keep an eye out for the Vallon des Auffes, a picturesque fishing village, before reaching the Prado beaches. The road continues to La Pointe Rouge, where more sands await.
Address: 163 Cor Président John Fitzgerald Kennedy, Marseille.
Opening times: Daily 24 hours.
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
Overlooked by Fort St Nicholas and Fort St Jean, and thronged with masts, Vieux Port is the heart of Marseille. It’s a great place simply to stroll and soak up the atmosphere, especially among its many quayside restaurants. Marseille’s lively fish market takes place here daily on Quai des Belges.
Address: 1e, Vieux Port, Marseille.
Opening times: Daily 24 hours.
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
Occupying Marseille’s highest point, 147m (482ft) above sea level, the neo-Byzantine basilica was built in the 19th century. Nicknamed Bonne Mère (good mother), it is topped by a gilded statue of the Virgin, who is said to bestow protection on fishermen. The mosaics are particularly beautiful, and there are magnificent views.
Address: Rue Fort du Sanctuaire, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 4 9113 4080
Opening times: Daily 07:00-19:00.
Website: www.notredamedelagarde.com
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
- Musée des Civilisations de l’Europe et de la Méditerranée
(Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations) Built in 2013 to celebrate Marseille’s year as the European Capital of Culture, this audaciously designed gallery in the rejuvenated docks district puts on exhibits from all over the Mediterranean. Use the footbridge connecting it to Fort Saint Jean to explore the rooftop terrace before descending via the glassed-in external staircase.
Address: 1 esplanade du J4, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 4 8435 1313
Opening times: Wed-Mon 10:00-19:00.
Website: www.mucem.org
Admission Fees: For exhibitions only
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
Built between 1947 and 1952 by famed architect Le Corbusier, the Cité Radieuse (literally ‘radiant city’) is a housing development in the southern suburbs of Marseille. For architecture buffs, it’s virtually unmissable – it was the first of Le Corbusier’s Unités d’Habitation and houses some 1,500 residents as well as a hotel, church and rooftop garden.
Address: Cité Radieuse de Marseille, Boulevard Michelet, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 8 2650 0500 (for tours).
Opening times: Daily 09:00-18:00 (guided tours Tue-Sat 14:00 and 16:00).
Website:www.marseille-citeradieuse.org
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
Situated halfway between Le Prado and the Corniche, Parc Borély is a tranquil expanse of greenery complete with a duck-filled lake and rowing boats for hire. There is also a botanical garden, a rose garden and even a chateau. Cycling is allowed in the park, with bicycles for hire at the entrance.
Address: 551 avenue du Prado, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 4 9155 2551
Opening times: Daily 06:00-21:00.
Website: www.marseille.fr
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
- Le Panier and the Vieille Charité
The maze of narrow streets found in the Quartier du Panier, the oldest part of Marseille, lead to the Vieille Charité, a pretty set of 17th-century buildings. Today the complex is an art centre, with two museums, several art galleries, a cinema, a café, a restaurant and a bookshop.
Address: 2 rue de la Charité, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 4 9125 0107 (cinema) , +33 4 9114 5880 (museums).
Opening times: Tue-Sun 09:00-18:00.
Website: www.musees.marseille.fr
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
- Abbaye de Saint Victor (Saint Victor Abbey)
This beautiful abbey was built in the 5th century on the burial place of Saint Victor, a Roman martyr. The abbey was destroyed several times over the years, until being fortified by Pope Urban V in the 14th century. The crypt is particularly atmospheric. The abbey regularly hosts concerts of religious music.
Address: 7e, 3 rue de l’Abbaye, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 4 9611 2260
Opening times: Daily 09:00-19:00.
Website: www.saintvictor.net
Admission Fees: Yes (crypt only).
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
- Muséum d’Histoire Naturelle de Marseille
This natural history museum does what it says on the tin – and in some detail too. There are permanent exhibits looking at the evolution of man and fossil specimens found in Provence, but the most eye-catching element of the attraction is the Safari Museum, which showcases some 300 mounted animals.
Address: 4e, Palais Longchamp, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 4 9114 5950
Opening times: Wed-Sun 09:00-18:00.
Website : www.museum-marseille.org
Admission Fees: Yes (free on Sun mornings).
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
- Stade Vélodrome et Musée de l’OM (Velodrome Stadium and OM Museum)
Football is sacred in Marseille, and an Olympique de Marseille home match is an exhilarating way of experiencing the local character in its most unbridled form. The stadium is also the setting for large-scale concerts and festivals. Next door is a museum for footie fans, with plenty of information on Les Phocéens.
Address: 8e, 3 boulevard Michelet, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 4 8445 3800
Opening times: See website for fixtures.
Website:www.orangevelodrome.com
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
Office de Tourisme et des Congrès
Address: 11 La Canebière, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 8 2650 0500.
Opening times: Daily 09:00-18:00.
Website: www.marseille-tourisme.com
The tourist office has a good selection of leaflets in English covering the major places of interest in Marseille and the surrounding areas, as well as maps. There is another, smaller office at the train station.
The Marseille City Pass includes free transportation (including a sightseeing train and boat trip to Chateau d’If), free entry to museums, free guided tours and discounts in selected shops. It is available for one to three days. Passes can be purchased from the tourist office or participating outlets.
Things to do in Marseille
- Catch a game at Stade Vélodrome
Even if you don’t enjoy football, a visit to Marseille’s infamous:
Stade Vélodrome
Opened in 1937, its famous wave-like roof makes it one of football’s most prepossessing structures, while its team Olympique Marseille has long been one of France’s most successful – if unpredictable – clubs. Will be an unforgettable experience.
Website: www.om.net/en
Miramar
On Vieux Port one of Marseille’s most famous restaurants and widely renown for its bouillabaisse. Those keen to learn the alchemy of Marseille’s most famous dish can join a cookery course, in which one of the restaurant’s chefs takes participants through the step-by-step process of getting your dish to restaurant quality.
Telephone: +33 4 91 91 41 09
Website: www.lemiramar.fr
Marseille’s le velo
bike hire scheme has proved popular since launch and visitors can freewheel their way through picturesque urban pockets or head for the postcard-pretty coastal roads. The machines require a debit card or – for those still living in 1976 – a cheque, and costs 1€ per day.
Website: www.velo-electrique-marseille.fr
- Go diving in the Calanques
Marseille might not be famed for its diving, but those keen to explore the teal blue waters of the Calanques can arrange to be accompanied by an instructor from:
DUNE World
Telephone: + 33 4 88 66 48 13
Website: www.dune-world.com
The best time for diving is between June and September.
- Take a boat to Château d’If
Château d’If
Is the setting for much of Alexander Dumas’s classic novel The Count Of Monte Cristo, and this work of fiction has solidified the prison island’s must-visit reputation. Situated just off the entrance to the city’s old port, it’s easily accessible by the:
Frioul If Express
Website: www.frioul-if-express.com/en
Marseille tours and excursions
Marseille tours
The tourist office has the timetable of the Petit Train de la Bonne Mère, which trundles past the main sights of the city at a leisurely pace. Marseille Taxi Tour, meanwhile, offers sightseeing from the comfort and privacy of your own cab.
Telephone: +44 8 2650 0500 , +44 6 6186 2341
Website: www.marseille-tourisme.com
Marseille’s hilly streets are a doddle when you’re in the saddle of a new electric bike. Guided tours take visitors to hidden corners of the city, with much less effort than on a conventional bike. Longer tours take in the Calanques and Marseille’s beaches, and groups are kept to a small size.
Telephone: +33 7 8200 7347
Website: www.ebiketours.fr
Marseille excursions
Boats leave regularly from Marseille’s Vieux-Port to Ile d’If, some 3km (2 miles) off the coast. Its infamous prison was the setting for Alexandre Dumas’s Count of Monte Cristo.
The island is one of the sparsely inhabited and ruggedly beautiful Frioul archipelago, which also has restaurants, bars and shops.
- Ile d’If Cassis and the Calanques
The Calanques, on the edge of Marseille, are a series of steep limestone cliffs falling abruptly into the sea, with secluded coves and creeks. The area is ideal for swimming and hiking – although it can get terribly hot, so carry plenty of water. Check out upmarket Cassis, which has plenty of cafés.
Telephone: +33 8 9239 0103
Website: www.ot-cassis.com
Shopping in Marseille
As the second largest city in France, Marseille offers some of the best shopping opportunities outside of Paris. And as with so much about the destination, diversity is everything – two minutes’ walk can take you from Dior cosmetics counters to spice-laden backstreets.
Key areas
The main shopping streets in Marseille , the rue Paradis, rue Saint Ferréol and rue de Rome, run off the Canebière, just to the north of the main tourist office. Popular items to bring back home include soap (the famous savon de Marseille) and santons (carved wooden or clay crèche figurines) – in December, you will be able to buy some at the Marché aux Santons on the Canebière.
The Ateliers Marcel Carbonel, 47 rue Neuve-Ste-Catherine, 7e, offer the widest choice of santons in town, as well as pastis (Marseille’s famous tipple), garlic (a key ingredient in Provençal cooking), and Provençal fabric and pottery.
La Maison du Pastis, 108 quai du Port, 2e, has the greatest selection of pastis in town (over 90, including a few homemade ones) and is well worth a visit. Le Four des Navettes, 136 rue Sainte, 7e, is where to head for navettes, delicious orange-blossom-flavoured biscuits shaped like boats.
Markets
There are several markets in Marseille. One not to miss is the fish market (daily 07:30-12:30) on the quai des Belges at the Vieux Port is a real spectacle as local fishermen compete with one another to sell the catch of the day to passers-by. Fresh fish have been sold from the same spot for centuries.
For something completely different, try ‘les Puces’ (the flea market), 130 chemin de la Madrague Ville, 15, an absorbing cross between a north African bazaar and a car boot sale. one of the liveliest places to lose yourself on a Saturday or Sunday morning (open Tuesday to Saturday 08:00-12:00 and 14:00-18:00, Sunday 08:30-13:00).
Shopping centres
The Centre Bourse, just behind the Old Port, has an upmarket shopping mall above the underground car park. it looks a bit sombre from the outside, but the interior is fully laden with various kinds of designer-label goods –fashion, and health and beauty being the two dominant themes – and the central location makes it the most easily accessible option of its kind in the city.
There are some 60 shops spread over its three floors, many of which can’t be found elsewhere in Marseille.
Opening hours
Shops are open Monday to Saturday 08:00-12:00 and 14:00-19:00, although some remain open at lunchtime. Most shops are closed on Sunday.
Souvenirs
A city of this scale doesn’t come with many restrictions on the souvenir front, and there’s no shortage of variety whether you’re after gift-wrapped bonbons, African masks, chunky fisherman sweaters or Provençal artwork. It’s wise to do a bit of window-shopping before making a major purchase – prices and quality can vary.
Those buying gifts for football-mad friends and family will find two official Olympique de Marseille merchandise boutiques in the heart of town.
Tax information
Sales tax varies from 5.5% (food) to 19.6% (luxury goods).
Marseille Food And Drink
10 Best Local Dishes In Marseille
The best Marseille foods and drinks feature flavours typical of Provence. Many people have heard of the city’s fragrant fish soup – bouillabaisse – as well as the delicious olive tapenade and strong pastis, and that’s just for starters. Sun-drenched Marseille has many foods to offer to satisfy your gourmet desires.
The foods you can try in Marseille are made of Mediterranean fish, colourful local vegetables, the highest quality olive oil, and famous Provençal herbs and spices. You’ll find seafood and meat dishes, vegan meals, and also sweet delights served in local restaurants or street kiosks. Select any of the foods listed below to enjoy the inimitable flavours of Marseille.
Panisse is a type of chickpea flour pancakes originating from Marseille’s l’Estaque district. It’s believed that Italian workers brought their chickpea bread into the region back in the 1930s. The typical ingredients include chickpeas flour, olive oil, water, salt, and pepper.
Gluten-free and vegan, panisse will please you with a smooth silky texture and a crispy crust. Cut into almost any shape, they are usually sold by dozens in small paper wraps in the streets or take-away restaurants. You can enjoy it as an appetiser to dig into dips, or as a side dish with meat, seafood, and salads.
- Pieds paquets A unique Provençal meat dish
Pieds et paquets (feet and packets) is a meat speciality from Marseille and Sisteron. You can find it in just about every local restaurants in Marseille. The dish is prepared with stewed lamb’s feet and tripe stuffed with salt pork, garlic, onions, and persillade (a sauce made of parsley). All ingredients need to be stewed for at least 7 hours.
The long preparation makes for a tasty result. The meat is so tender, it practically melts in the mouth. Pieds et paquets is usually served for special occasions and big family reunions. Don’t forget to ask for a glass of red French wine to accompany this delicious meat dish.
Restaurants in Marseille
Marseille has an abundance of good dining options, from traditional Provençal plates to authentic international dishes. Local specialities include the rich fish soup bouillabaisse, but also ratatouille, piedsetpaquets (sheep and tripe stew), soupe au pistou (vegetable soup), bourride (fish stew with aioli), aioli and tapenade. The Marseille restaurants below have been grouped into three pricing categories:
Expensive (over €60)
Moderate (€20 to €60)
Cheap (up to €20)
These Marseille restaurant prices are for an average three-course meal for one and for a bottle of house wine or cheapest equivalent. All French restaurant bills automatically include a 15% service charge.
Expensive
Cuisine: French
This legendary Marseille restaurant is in the Vallon des Auffes, a picturesque creek tucked away underneath the Corniche. The area is still home to fishermen and their families, so the focus of Chez Fonfon is very much on seafood dishes. It’s one of the best places in town to try bouillabaisse.
Address: 140 rue Vallon des Auffes, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 4 9152 1438
Website: www.chez-fonfon.com
Cuisine: French
Michelin star? Tick. Idyllic coastal setting? Tick. Hefty prices? Tick. This upmarket restaurant unquestionably serves some of the best seafood and fish dishes in Marseille. Head chef Guillaume Sourrieu has cemented a phenomenal reputation since he took over in 1999. Closed Sundays, Mondays and throughout August.
Address: 156 rue du Vallon des Auffes, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 4 9152 1782
Website: www.l-epuisette.com
Cuisine: Provençal
Le Miramar offers what is simply one of the best culinary experiences in Marseille. Since the mid-1960s, aficionados of bouillabaisse have been flocking here for a taste of the flavourful fish soup. The restaurant is a founding member of the bouillabaisse charter – a sure sign of quality and authenticity.
Address: 12 quai du Port, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 4 9191 1040
Website: www.lemiramar.fr
Moderate
Cuisine: Japanese
This spotless Japanese restaurant is tucked away behind the Palais Longchamp, offering friendly service and an intimate atmosphere. The sushi, sashimi and other dishes are all excellent, and there is an open-plan kitchen so you can watch the chef rolling your sushi before you eat them. It’s tiny, so booking is essential.
Address: 4 rue Capazza, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 4 9134 0008
Cuisine: Seafood
Part fishmonger, part restaurant, this busy and noisy temple to seafood is well away from the Vieux Port yet offers some of Marseille’s best fish. It’s open only at lunchtime, and among the excellent fish dishes are some of the more unusual marine offerings, such as sea anemones and sea urchins.
Address: 2 boulevard de la Libération, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 4 9150 9595
Website: www.laboiteasardine.com
- Le Colombia Brasserie Paradis
Cuisine: Brewery
Nice food. Moderate prices. Great people serving. you have much at the inner terrace that is lovely. A decent place for a quick lunch and the bar is quite nice although drinks are among the priciest in the area.
Address: 572 Rue Paradis, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 4 9122 5574
Website: www.paradis.lecolombia.fr
Cheap
Cuisine: North African
A well-established Tunisian restaurant near the Vieux Port, La Kahena packs diners in every night, despite severe local competition. It specialises in couscous, of which it offers 10 different varieties, including merguez (spicy beef and/or lamb sausage), fish, lamb, chicken and ‘royal’, with a bit of everything in it.
Address: 2 Rue de la République, 13001 Marseille.
Telephone: +33 4 9190 6193
Website: www.lakahena.fr
Cuisine: Asian
It’s a small Asian address a stone’s throw from the Prefecture, hidden behind a discreet storefront. In the room, classic decoration, what you ultimately expect from an Asian restaurant. Lovely welcome and fast service.
Address: 24 Rue Sylvabelle, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 4 9615 3641
Website: www.linka-marseille.fr
Cuisine: French
Located in grand surroundings in Louis XIV’s arsenal, this restaurant, owned by local publisher Jeanne Lafitte, is part of a complex that also houses two bookshops. The restaurant specialises in traditional local dishes such as piedsetpaquets (sheep and tripe stew) and daube (beef stew). Several reception rooms are also available. Closed Sundays.
Address: 25 cours d’Estienne d’Orves, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 4 9159 8030
Website: www.les-arcenaulx.com
Marseille Nightlife
Marseille has a dynamic live music and club scene. The best areas for nightlife are Place Thiars and Cours Honoré-d’Estienne-d’Orves in the Vieux Port, and Cours Julien, a square lined with cafés and bars west of the port. Marseille By Night
Website: www.marseillebynight.com is a good online guide for what’s happening in the city once the sun drops (French only).
Bars in Marseille
The St-Victor district in the seventh arrondissement is steadily growing in popularity and is home to several bars, restaurants and food shops much loved by the bobo (bohemian bourgeois).
Top of the list is laidback Bar de la Relève, where the tables spill out onto the street.
Address: 41 Rue d’Endoume, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 4 9509 8781
Website: www.larelevemarseille.fr
The wicked spirit of the Prohibition is evoked in this clandestine bar that’s deliberately difficult to find and won’t reveal its address. Behind an innocuous-looking shop and through a secret door is a 1920s-themed joint, which requires a code to enter (via the website).
Only then can you sit back with a cocktail.
Address: Adresse secrète, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 9 5026 0166
Website: www.carrynation.fr
O’Malley’s Irish Pub is an emblematic establishment in the Old Port of Marseille, known for its rock ‘n’ roll atmosphere and Irish decoration. Since its opening in 1997, it has attracted crowds of music and beer fans, coming from all over the world to enjoy its diverse music programming and beer selection. The pub was founded by a group of friends passionate about music and beer, who decided to leave their hometown to settle in Marseille and open their own establishment.
Address: 9 Quai de Rive Neuve, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 4 9133 6550
Website: www.irishpubmarseille.com
Clubs in Marseille
Geared towards teens and early twenty-somethings, this seasonal club is open from on Fridays and Saturdays from October until April. Come May, the action moves outside to La Palmeraie for dancing under the stars. Thursday is kitsch night, when the music is strictly 1980s and 90s.
Address: 90 boulevard Rabatau, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 6 5852 1515
Website: www.bazarmarseille.com
Situated in what was originally a 17th-century weapons store, Le Trolleybus has been a fixture on Marseille’s nightlife scene since it opened in 1989. There are three clubs (Le Whiskybar, La Dame Noire Dancing and La Suite), which all serve up a mixture of house, electro, funk, soul, pop and rock.
Address: 24 quai de Rive Neuve, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 4 9154 3045
Website: www.letrolley.com
Marseille’s most established gay club is open from Thursday to Sunday and has been going hard for more than 20 years. New Cancan also puts on also regular themed nights that range from Halloween spectacles to anniversary celebrations.
Occasional big-name musical acts add to the appeal.
Address: 3-7 rue Sénac de Meilhan, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 4 9148 5976
Website: www.newcancan.com
Live music in Marseille
If you’re looking for an emblem of Marseille’s multiculturalism, this is the place. Specialising in world music, Dock des Suds is an expansive venue showcasing artists from as far afield as Cameroon and South Korea. It also offers an affordable slice of the city’s colourful music scene.
Address: 12 rue Urbain V, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 4 9199 0000
Website: www.dock-des-suds.org
With a schedule featuring everything from French artists and jazz stars to hip hop and local bands, Espace Julien is a theatre venue with a rich cabaret atmosphere and a lively reputation. It’s more than just a live music though and it dedicate its space to rehearsals, lessons and other cultural goings-on.
Address: 39 cours Julien, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 4 9124 3410
Website: www.espace-julien.com
Located in the Saint-Just area of the city, this former 1950s cinema used to show the biggest film stars on its silver screen, but now it hosts the best bands on the touring circuit. Boasting two rooms, everyone from Oasis and Femi Kuti to George Clinton and Nick Cave have performed here.
Address: Saint-Just, 47 boulevard Perrin, Marseille.
Telephone: +33 4 9106 3394
Website: www.lemoulin.org