Buenos Aires Travel Guide
- About Buenos Aires
- Buenos Aires History
- Did you know?
- Weather in Buenos Aires
Getting around Buenos Aires
- Public transport
The cheapest way to get around Buenos Aires is by bus
Website: www.loscolectivos.com.ar or on the underground, known locally as
Subte
Telephone: +54 11 5166 5800
Website: www.buenosaires.gob.ar
Pay for buses with coins once onboard – many operate 24 hours a day. Alternatively, buy an electronic
SUBE card
Website: www.sube.gob.ar from a post office or ticket booth, which can be topped up with credit and used to travel on most buses, subway lines and local trains. Trains on the Mitre and San Martin lines are operated by the state–backed
SOFSE
Telephone: 0800 222 8736 in Argentina only.
Website: www.sofse.gob.ar
Ferrovias
Telephone: 0800 777 3377 in Argentina only.
Website: www.ferrovias.com.ar runs routes to nearby towns.
- Taxis
You can easily hail yellow and black taxis from the pavement, but an extra-safe option is to phone for a radio taxi from a company like
Radio Taxi Pidalo
Telephone: +54 11 4956 1200
Remises (fixed-fare taxis booked in advance) generally work out cheaper, especially for airport runs
Remises Universal
Telephone: +54 11 4105 5555 is a reliable operator.
- Driving
Traffic in the city centre is heavily congested, but the grid system is reasonably easy to master, with arrows indicating the directions on street signs. Accidents here are common. One tip is to slow down and flash the vehicle lights when approaching cross intersections without traffic lights at night. Microcentro (the financial centre of Buenos Aires) is off limits to traffic between 0700 and 2100. Parquimetros (parking meters) operate 0700-2100 on weekdays in the Macrocentro (outer city), and take tokens (fichas) purchased from kiosks or coin machines. Numerous estacionamientos (car parks) or playas (parking bays) are usually marked by flag-waving dummies.
- Bicycle hire
Buenos Aires’ bikeshare scheme is called
Eco Bici
Telephone: 0800 333 2424 in Argentina only.
Website: www.buenosaires.gob.ar
Once you register, you can use a bike for an hour at a time. Alternatively, bicycle hire is available from
BA Bikes
Address: Carlos Pellegrini 1233, C1009 Cdad. Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 911 3210 9399
Website: www.buenosairesbiketours.com
- Car hire
Benefit from Travoley’s great deals available all year round for a seamless car hire experience in Buenos Aires. Travel your way by choosing from our collection of brand new cars. Whether you are looking for car rental in Buenos Aires as part of a vacation, or renting a car for a special event, you will be sure to find a car to suit your needs from our wide range of economy and luxury models.
In order to hire a car, drivers must be at least 21 years old, depending on company policy. All drivers need a valid home country license if it uses the English alphabet (like from the EU, US, UK, Aus, etc.) or an International Driving Permit (IDP) if your license doesn’t have English, acting as a translation. Always carry your original license and passport/ID, plus vehicle registration/insurance.
Our simple booking system makes it easy to reserve online before you go, offering flexible short- and long-term rental, all at great prices with no hidden charges, so when you arrive all that’s left is to discover the best of this exciting city.
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Things to see in Buenos Aires
Attractions
- Museo De Arte Latinoamericano De Buenos Aires (MALBA)
In an ultra-modern building, this outstanding museum showcases the best of Latin American art spanning from the 20th century until today. Highlights include works by Argentine artist Antonio Berni and Mexican portraitist Frida Kahlo. The museum also hosts exciting temporary exhibitions, art-house films, talks and lectures and has an onsite gift shop, library and a smart café.
Address: Palermo, Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415, Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 4808 6500
Opening times: Wed-Mon 12:00-20:00.
Website: www.malba.org.ar
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
- Museo Nacional De Bellas Artes
Occupying a grand neoclassical building, the National Fine Arts Museum contains an impressive display of international and Argentine artwork, paintings and sculptures. Collections span from the Middle Ages to the 20th century, with galleries devoted to Impressionists including Renoir, Monet and Degas, and contemporary masterpieces by the likes of Rubens, Rothko and Pollock.
Address: Recoleta, Avenida del Libertador 1473, Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 5288 9900
Opening times: Tues-Sun 11:00-07:30.
Website: www.bellasartes.gob.ar
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
- Plaza De Mayo
This pigeon-pecked plaza was the scene of the May Revolution of 1810 that led to Argentina’s independence. Its focal point is the dusty-pink Casa Rosada featuring the famous balcony from where prominent figures, ranging from Evita to Diego Maradona, have addressed the crowds. Every Thursday, the mothers of those who disappeared during Argentina’s military dictatorship march around the plaza.
Address: Monserrat, Eastern end of Avenida de Mayo, Buenos Aires.
Opening times: Daily 24 hours.
Website: www.turismo.buenosaires.gob.ar
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
- San Telmo
Broken-down beauty is the essence of San Telmo. As one of Buenos Aires’s oldest neighbourhoods, its cobbled streets are flanked by crumbling buildings occupied by atmospheric cafés, bookshops and artist studios. On Sundays, the main thoroughfare becomes an atmospheric outdoor antiques market that spills out onto Plaza Dorrego, a lively square where tango dancers and street musicians perform.
Address: San Telmo, Buenos Aires.
Opening times: Daily 24 hours.
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
- La Boca
This colourful barrio (neighbourhood) is renowned for its football team, Boca Juniors, who play passionately at the local stadium of La Bombonera. Multi-coloured, corrugated-iron houses characterise the main street of Calle Caminito that bustles with street performers, artists and tango dancers. The simple houses were built by Italian immigrants, said to have decorated them with stolen paint from the nearby docks where they worked.
Address: La Boca, Buenos Aires.
Opening times: Daily 24 hours.
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
- Cementerio De Recoleta (Recoleta Cemetery)
Recoleta’s cemetery is a veritable city of the dead, with countless rows of towering tombs housing the remains of Argentina’s most revered – the most famous being the country’s infamous First Lady, Eva Perón. Founded in 1822, the cemetery also contains tombs, crypts and impressive statues of revered writers, national heroes and former presidents built in various architectural styles. Guided tours are available on site.
Address: Recoleta, Calle Junín 1760, Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 4803 1594
Opening times: Daily 09:00-17:00.
Website: www.turismo.buenosaires.gob.ar
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
- Puerto Madero
The city’s youngest barrio is Puerto Madero, an ambitious regeneration project that has turned a former working dock into a lively waterfront attraction perfect for a weekend stroll. Its red-brick warehouses are now home to galleries, upmarket bars and restaurants. Old cranes line either side of the dock, which is spanned by the Puente de la Mujer (Woman’s Bridge).
Address: Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 4515 4600
Opening times: Daily 24 hours.
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
- Museo Evita
Inaugurated on the 50th anniversary of Evita’s death (26 July 2002), this intriguing museum tells the life story of Eva Perón, who served as the First Lady of Argentina from 1946 until her abrupt death in 1952. The controversial heroine is immortalised through moving personal artefacts including pristine dresses, historic photographs and compelling audiovisual displays.
Address: Palermo, Calle Lafinur 2988, Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 4807 9433
Opening times: Tues-Sun 11:00-19:00.
Website: www.museoevita.org.ar
Admission Fees: Yes
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
- Jardín Japonés (Japanese Garden)
The Jardín Japonés in Palermo Park makes the perfect antidote to the hustle and bustle of the city. Created in 1967 as a gift from the local Japanese community, the garden is a tranquil park of Asiatic shrubs and trees beautifully landscaped around a small lake bubbling with huge carp. There’s also an on-site Japanese restaurant that’s worth a stop for lunch.
Address: Av. Casares 3450, C1425EWN Cdad. Autónoma de Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 2257 2130
Opening times: Daily 10:00-18:30.
Website: www.jardinjapones.org.ar
Admission Fees: Yes (free admission for under 12s).
Disabled Access: No
UNESCO: No
- Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur
Built on marshland reclaimed from the River Plate, this 360-hectare (890-acre) ecological reserve has become a verdant park packed with plants and creatures typical of the region. Paths for walkers and cyclists (bikes are for hire at the entrance) crisscross the park where there are many viewing platforms from where to spot hundreds of species of birds.
Address: Costanera Sur, Avenida Tristán Achával Rodríguez 1550, Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 4893 1853
Opening times: Tues-Sun 08:00-17:30.
Website: www.buenosaires.gob.ar
Admission Fees: No
Disabled Access: Yes
UNESCO: No
Tourist Offices
- Centro de Información Turísticas
Address: Florida 50, C1005 Cdad. Autónoma de Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 4806 0904
Opening times: Daily 09:00-20:00.
Website: www.turismo.buenosaires.gob.ar
There are several tourist information centres dotted across the city, offering travel advice and other services such as free Wi-Fi, phone charging and water refills. Recoleta’s office is good for local information, while the main Ministry of Tourism Office (Avenida Santa Fe 883) is best for travel beyond Buenos Aires. The tourist centre also runs free English-language guided walks focussing on a different district each day.
Tourist Passes
- BUENOS AIRES PASS
Address: Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 4989 3986
Opening times: Mon-Fri 24 hours.
Website: www.bairespass.com
Things to do in Buenos Aires
- Float above Buenos Aireas in a hot-air balloon
The ultimate way to escape chaos of Buenos Aires is in a gliding hot-air balloon above the city. Launching in Capilla del Señor, 80km (50 miles) outside the city, you can float over the beautiful countryside, spotting animals while admiring the views. The best time to take the one-hour flight is in the evening just before sunset.
Tangol
Telephone: +54 11 3221 8400
Website: www.tangol.com can get you off the ground with tours that include transfers from your hotel.
- Get caught up in a polo match
Ever since English cattlemen introduced the sport, polo has held a special place in Argentine culture. It continues to thrive amid the higher classes of society, so catching a match in Buenos Aires is easy, with many organised throughout the year.
The Hurlingham Club
Telephone: +54 11 4662 5510
Website: www.hurlinghamclub.com.ar is the most famous association in the area, but the likes of
La Tarde Polo Club
Address: Buenos Aires Province.
Telephone: +54 11 4798 9231
Website: www.latardepolo.com
- Hoof your way around an estancia (ranch)
Horse riding is a true Argentine passion, and there are plenty of opportunities to saddle up in and around Buenos Aires. A great option is to visit one of the beautiful Estancias (ranches) in easy reach of the city, who run riding trips form their land.
Estancia El Ombú de Areco
Address: Ruta 31 Cuartel VI, Villa Lía, Provincia de Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 23 2649 2080
Website: www.estanciaelombu.com is close enough to visit in a day, and one of the country’s oldest ranches, while
Dos Talas
Address: Cuartel 5°, B7100 Dolores, Provincia de Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 922 4550 3091
Website: www.dostalas.com.ar offers sunset riding around a beautiful lake.
- Play 18 holes at one of Argentina’s best golf courses
Golf is a fast growing sport in Argentina and Buenos Aires is home to some of the country’s finest courses. Try teeing off at the challenging
Jockey Club
Address: Av. Alvear 1345, AAA, Cdad. Autónoma de Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 4815 0022
Website: www.jockeyclub.com.ar in San Isidro with its beautiful greens and tricky water hazards. Or test your mettle at the regal-looking
Buenos Aires Golf Club
Address: IRA, Mayor Irusta 3777, Bella Vista, Provincia de Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 4468 0975
Website: www.bagolf.com.ar with its lumpy fairways and clawing bunkers.
- Tour Buenos Aires on two wheels
Buenos Aires’ cycling provision is ever-improving and getting around on two wheels is one of the best ways to discover the city when time is limited.
Babikes – Bike Tours in Buenos Aires
Address: Carlos Pellegrini 1233, Cdad. Autónoma de Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 9 11 3210 9399
Website: www.buenosairesbiketours.com offer excellent rides around the key sights, but also have tailored trips focusing on food, the city’s burgeoning street art scene and even one designed for those looking to get the best photos of Buenos Aires in all its glory.
Buenos Aires tours and excursions
Buenos Aires tours
- Bicycle tours
A combination of flat ground and separated bike lanes makes cycling in BA a pleasurable experience. Biking Buenos Aires run highly recommended English-language tours around specific sightseeing neighbourhoods as well as themed expeditions focussing on art or architecture. An eclectic collection of guided pedal tours is also available with BA Bikes, including food bike tours, market tours, a full-day trip to Uruguay and a deluxe E-bike option.
Telephone: +54 11 6698 5923 , +54 11 4300 5373
Website: www.bikingbuenosaires.com
- Culture tours
Buenos Aires is laden with culture-orientated tours that can offer more imaginative perspectives that the average tourist trail. The city’s street art scene comes alive with Graffitimundo who takes groups around BA’s many colourful murals while explaining their history and significance. Food lovers may prefer to opt for the Parrilla Tour to sample some of the city’s finest cuts, choripán (chorizo sandwich) and empanadas in its local hangouts.
Telephone: +54 911 3683 3219 , +54 9 11 4048 5964
Website: www.parrillatour.com
Buenos Aires excursions
- Tigre
An hour’s train ride from Buenos Aires’ Retiro Station takes you to Tigre, a pleasant riverside town on an island in the Paraná Delta. Riverboats depart from the Estación Fluvial (River Terminal) to explore the waterways while a few blocks away from the station there’s the daily Puerto de Frutos (fruit market) which now sells local handicrafts.
- Agencia de Turismo Tigre 1600
Telephone: +54 11 4897 6444
Website: www.vivitigre.gov.ar
- San Antonio de Areco
Just over 100 km (60 miles) from Buenos Aires, San Antonio de Areco is a rustic town that trades on its gaucho heritage. Its stone-paved colonial streets are lined with shops selling gaucho handicrafts crafted from leather, silver and ceramics. Visit Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes which recreates a traditional estancia (ranch) or, for a real estancia experience, nearby
- Los Dos Hermanos
Telephone: +54 11 4723 2880
Website: www.estancialosdoshermanos.com provides a warm welcome.
Tourist Information
- Avenida Zerboni 2760
Telephone: +54 23 2645 3165
Website: www.sanantoniodeareco.com
Shopping in Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires offers some of the most sophisticated shopping in Latin America. The quality can be excellent, especially with leather items. Maté sets (Argentina’s national drink) make good presents, as do silver jewellery, wines and the odd tin of dulce de leche (sweet, sticky caramelised milk).
- Key areas
Buenos Aires’ famous shopping strip, Calle Florida, is packed with cheap fashion shops, but visitors should be careful of paying over the odds for leather goods. Instead, they should head to Welcome at Calle Marcelo T de Alvear 500. Palermo Viejo is full of unique boutiques, while fair trade leather products and textiles from local communities are available from Pasion Argentina, Emilio Ravignani 1780, and Tierra Adentro, Arroyo 882. Ethical South American crafts and textiles can be found at Arte Etnico Argentino, El Salvador 4656 in Palermo Viejo, and art lovers will find great pieces in amongst the masses at La Boca.
- Markets
The best place to search for antiques and colonial paintings is at the Feria de San Pedro Telmo flea market at Plaza Dorrego on Sundays. The Hippie Fair in front of the Centro Cultural Recoleta is a colourful place to browse for handicrafts, jewellery and artwork at weekends.
- Shopping centres
You’ll find many shopping malls across Buenos Aires, but two of the most popular are Galerias Pacifico at Calle Florida 737 and Patio Bullrich at Avenida del Libertador.
- Opening hours
Shopping hours in Buenos Aires are Monday to Friday 09:00-20:00 and Saturday 09:00-13:00, although malls are generally open daily 10:00-22:00.
- Souvenirs
San Telmo and La Boca are rammed with great spots for picking up souvenirs. San Telmo is perfect for picking up tango-themed gifts, while La Boca has plenty of shops selling vintage football shirts for both Boca Juniors and the national team.
- Tax information
Purchase tax or VAT, known as IVA (Impuesto de Valor Agregado), stands at 21% and is payable on everything with the exception of medicines and food. Tax-free shopping is available at certain outlets, just look for the ‘Tax Free Shopping’ logo. On leaving Argentina, receipts should be presented at customs before check-in and the refund collected at a separate kiosk.
Since January 2017, foreign visitors are no longer eligable to pay IVA (VAT) on hotel stays and services. If you pay using a foreign debit or credit card, the reimbursement should be automatic and paid directly into your card’s checking account.
Buenos Aires Food And Drink
Food In Buenos Aires
- Asado
In Buenos Aires, a barbecue is a social ritual that brings friends and family together. Argentina is famous for its meat, but that’s not the only ingredient that makes our barbecues, or asados, so special. Teamwork is essential. Preparing an asado is both the work of one person and of many.
- Milanesa de carne
The milanesa (the Argentinian version of a breaded escalope) is in competition with Argentinian roasts and pizza for the title of the nation’s most popular dish.
- Grass-Fed Beef
Buenos Aires is famous for its grass-fed beef and its intense Malbec wine. Most visitors to the so-called “Paris of South America” have no problem finding those, setting aside at least one meal for them at one of the city’s internationally known parrillas (steak houses).
- Empanadas
Empanadas are made by folding dough over a filling, which usually consists of some type of protein, such as beef, chicken, or cheese, and/or vegetables, like diced potatoes, corn, and carrots. Then they’re either baked or fried and served with a variety of dipping sauces. In Argentina, empanadas are a staple.
- Locro
The dish is a classic squash, corn, beans, and potato or pumpkin soup well known along the South American Andes. In some regions, locro is made using a specific kind of potato called papa chola, which has a unique taste and is difficult to find outside of its home region.
- Choripán
The Argentine choripán consists of a sausage made out of beef and pork, hot off the grill, split down the middle, and served on a roll. The chorizo may be used whole or cut in half lengthwise, in which case it is called a mariposa (butterfly).
- Arroz con leche
The rice is slowly cooked in milk, cinnamon and vanilla until it achieves a creamy, slightly sweet consistency. It is cheap and easy to make, and can be eaten either cold or warm.
- Pastelitos
A pastelito is a square piece of quince jam (or sweet potato jam) covered in layers upon layers of puff pastry, covered with sugar syrup.
- Dulce de leche
Many people say its like making caramel, which is only partially true. Dulce de leche is made by heating sweetened milk over a stove top, and can be flavored with vanilla, cinamon (canela in spanish), chocolate, or kept as is for the original flavor.
Drink In Buenos Aires
- Maté yerba tea
It is made by soaking dried yerba mate (Ilex paraguariensis) leaves in hot water and is traditionally served with a metal straw (bombilla) in a container typically made from a calabash gourd (also called the mate), but also made from a cattle horn (guampa) in some areas.
- Torrontés
Torrontés is a white grape variety, mostly produced and known in Argentina, producing fresh, aromatic wines with moderate acidity, smooth texture and mouthfeel as well as distinctive peach and apricot aromas on the nose.
- Hot beverages
Consumed mostly in Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay and Brazil – as well as in Syria and Lebanon – traditional mate (pronounced MAH-tay) is a hot, bitter, caffeinated tea made by steeping the dried leaves of the yerba mate plant.
- Coffee
Part of it is the coffee used-the coffee in Argentina is very finely ground but very lightly roasted (unlike it’s finely ground but darkly roasted smoky counterpart, espresso.) Also, sugar is already added to the coffee grounds in some brands (like my favorite, La Virginia).
- Submarino
It consists of a bar of dark chocolate melted inside a glass of hot milk and stirred with a long spoon (similar to an iced tea spoon) until the chocolate is completely dissolved. It is most typically enjoyed in the winter, and is traditionally served in a long, glass cup held in a metal cup holder.
- Cocktails, Mixers and Aperitifs
Classics such as Pato, Clarito and AMBA 65 from the city’s 1950s-60s golden age of cocktails have been rediscovered, while bartenders have found new inspiration in Argentine ingredients like malbec, yerba mate, native fruits, and the many amaros brought to these shores by immigrants from the old continent.
- Fernet
Fernet is made from a number of herbs and spices which vary according to the brand, but usually include myrrh, rhubarb, chamomile, cardamom, aloe, and especially saffron, with a base of distilled grape spirits. Several brands of fernet sold in Argentina.
Restaurants in Buenos Aires
While Buenos Aires is best known for its tender steaks and fine bottles of Malbec, there’s more to the local cuisine than first meets the eye. Highly influenced by the great influx of Italian immigrants who arrived in Argentina in the 19th century, Buenos Aires is littered with handmade pasta shops, gelato joints and pizzerias all offering an authentic slice of culinary heritage.
In the last decade, a number of exciting contemporary restaurants have opened too, many of them starting out as puertas cerradas, or closed-door restaurants, which became popular after the economic crisis when enterprising chefs would open their homes to dinner guests.
In trendy Palermo, restaurants serving international cuisine are widespread, with everything from sushi to Peruvian-Japanese fusion up for grabs, while San Telmo has a generous sprinkling of traditional cafes and old-fashioned parrillas (grill houses). Be sure to reserve a table no earlier than 10pm to really experience mealtimes like a local. The Buenos Aires restaurants below have been hand-picked by our guide author and are grouped into three pricing categories:
Expensive (over US$150)
Moderate (US$60 to US$150)
Cheap (up to US$60)
These Buenos Aires restaurant prices are for a three-course meal for one, without wine. A service charge usually isn’t added to the bill, so a tip of around 10% of the total is appreciated.
Expensive
Aramburu Relais & Châteaux
Cuisine: Modern Argentinean
Serious food lover will be wowed by this culinary hothouse of innovation helmed by legendary chef Gonzalo Aramburu who serves an elaborate and artistic 12-course tasting menu to a handful of diners in his small, intimate eatery. Those with less cash to flash can try Aramburu Bis, a more casual kitchen but with a similar market-to-table ethos.
Address: Pasaje del Correo, Vicente López 1661, Autónoma de Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 4811 1414
Website: www.arambururesto.com.ar
- La Bourgogne
Cuisine: French
The plush interior of Alvear Palace Hotel flows flawlessly into the exquisite La Bourgogne restaurant. Chef Jean-Paul Bondoux delights gourmands with a refined blend of French classics and Mediterranean cuisine, or diners can opt for meats cooked on the rotisserie grill. The dress code is smart, the service flawless, and there’s even a wine-tasting room for larger groups.
Address: Recoleta, Avenida Alvear 1891, Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 4808 3857
Website: www.alvearpalace.com
Nuestro Secreto
Cuisine: Argentinian
One of the city’s most sought-after dining spots thanks to its reputation for creative prowess and flawless service. In an intimate space, diners take an adventurous tour of Latin America with a seven-course tasting menu that adds up to an unforgettable culinary experience.
Address: Posadas 1086, C1011 Cdad. Autónoma de Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 4321 1200
Website: www.fourseasons.com
Moderate
- Don Julio
Cuisine: Grill Argentinean
At one of Buenos Aires’ most highly rated parrillas (grills), Don Julio serves huge and succulent steaks from a flame grill that takes pride of place in the dining room. Walls are decked out with vintage bottles while the list of Argentine wines on offer is vast. Booking is essential in order to nab a table after 9pm when the locals pile in.
Address: Palermo Viejo, Guatemala 4691, Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 4832 6058
Website: www.parrilladonjulio.com.ar
- El Obrero
Cuisine: Argentinean
For a taste of old-time Buenos Aires, try humble steakhouse El Obrero (meaning The Worker) in La Boca which has been churning out big, juicy cuts since 1910 when it opened to cater to the many Italian immigrants arriving in the district. Not much has changed in terms of decor since that era, and walls are plastered with old pictures and football memorabilia, adding to the restaurant’s rustic charm.
Address: La Boca, Augustin R, Caffarena 64, Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 4362 9912
- Florería Atlántico
Cuisine: Argentinean
Follow the floral scent to this restaurant and lounge set beyond a secret doorway at the back of an unassuming flower shop in the Retiro district. The subterranean cavern takes inspiration from local immigrant history to divide its cocktail list by country (Italy, Spain, Poland) and serves delicious sharing plates combining Argentine and foreign flavours – think grilled octopus with black olives and classic morcilla blood sausage.
Address: Retiro, Arroyo 872, Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 3984 7849
Website: www.floreriaatlantico.com.ar
Cheap
- Artemisia
Cuisine: Vegetarian / Natural
Even carnivorous Buenos Aires is not without its vegetarian offerings. This bohemian eatery serves simple, homemade cuisine including pasta, rice and soup dishes that come accompanied with delicious homemade bread. The menu changes seasonally, while the dining room catches loads of natural light during the day making it a great spot for a long lunch.
Address: Palermo, Costa Rica 5893, Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 4773 2641
- Dadá Bistró
Cuisine: Argentinean
This artsy little eatery in Retiro only has a few tables and the odd space at the bar. Its menu is small, but the food has garnered a reputation for being among the best valued in the city. It’s a spot that has that slow town feel, with daily specials scribbled on a chalkboard, dusty posters and a bar serving cocktails that are a splash generous.
Address: San Martín, C1004 Cdad. Autónoma de Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 4314 4787
Website: www.dadabistrobar.com
- Il Nonno Bachicha
Cuisine: Argentinean
Set in the heart of San Telmo, Il Nonno Bachicha is a great place to try out Argentinean meat without leaving your holiday budget in a state of disrepair. The setting is resolutely old school, with a basic vibe that’ll make you feel as if you’ve stepped back into the Argentina of old.
Address: Defensa 963, Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 4361 7019
Buenos Aires Nightlife
Night owls won’t be disappointed by the after-dark action in Buenos Aires, that darts between brooding tango spectacles in traditional milongas (dance halls) and raucous all-nighters in booming boliches (nightclubs) where top-draw DJs start well after midnight and attract a mixed bunch of local and foreign party-goers. In every district an eclectic medley of bars abound, spanning from style-conscious cocktail lounges and sultry wine bars to the city’s latest trend of low-profile speakeasies.
Nightlife peaks from Thursday to Saturday, but on week nights BA still brims with plenty of other cultural attractions, including amazing opera at majestic colonial theatres and high-octane percussion sets staged in avant-garde cultural centres. Various websites offer events listings such as
Vuenoz Airez
Website: www.vuenosairez.com but it’s also worthwhile checking the entertainment section of newspapers like English-language
The Buenos Aires Herald
Website: www.buenosairesherald.com
La Nación
Website: www.lanacion.com.ar
Most venues have box offices, but there are also a number of centralised carteleras (ticket agencies) such
Ticketek
Website: www.ticketek.com.ar
Bars in Buenos Aires
- Frank’s
Dress to impress at this see-and-be-seen speakeasy that pulls out the stops with its sultry prohibition theme – there’s vintage wallpaper, pumping electro-jazz and bow-tied bartenders serving signature cocktails strong enough to make you swoon. Check its Facebook page for a password to get past the doormen, then be ready to dial in at a phone box for access to the hidden drinking lair.
Address: Palermo Hollywood, Arévalo 1443, Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 4777 6541
- Milión
Pass through an arched entrance to find Milión housed in a grand turn-of-the-century mansion complete with French windows that open onto a sweeping outdoor balcony and leafy garden. The drinks menu is a weighty tome of heady cocktails and rich Argentinean reds, and the elegant bar is complimented by a dining area and an in-house DJ playing laid-back tunes.
Address: Recoleta, Paraná 1048, Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 9 11 3765 9616
Website: www.milion.com.ar
- Verne Club
One of Palermo Viejo’s hottest hangouts, Verne Club is the place to find something a bit more refined than a pint of Quilmes. Among its Persian rugs, inviting Chesterfield sofas and vinyl-spinning DJs, you’ll find expertly made cocktails, a relaxed atmosphere and gourmet panchos (hot dogs) to soak up all the booze.
Address: Palermo Viejo, Medrano 1475, Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 4822 0980
Website: www.vernecocktailclub.com
Clubs in Buenos Aires
- Crobar
As one of the established ‘mega-clubs’ in Buenos Aires, Crobar offers mainstream house music that draws in a smartly dressed, wealthy set. If those tunes don’t cut it, there are myriad mezzanine levels and a back room playing everything from Latin pop to classic rock along with four bars providing refreshment for revellers.
Address: Palermo, Marcelo Freyre S/N, Paseo de la Infanta, Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 4778 1500
Website: www.crobar.com.ar
- Kika
Ultra hip hangout favoured by Porteños (Buenos Aires natives) and expats alike, Kika hosts some of the city’s most buzzing club nights with DJs playing an eclectic mix of drum’n’bass, classic hip hop and electro. Tuesday nights are a particular favourite and, despite the working week being in full swing, things don’t get going until the early hours.
Address: Palermo Hollywood, Honduras 5339, Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 4833 9171
Website: www.kikaclub.com.ar
- Niceto Club
One for the cool kids, Niceto offers a great assortment of club nights, from electro-cumbia (Latin urban music) to Thursday night’s weird and wonderful Club 69, which bubbles excitedly with flamboyant costumes, funky beats and a good helping of cross-dressing. It’s not all DJs and dressing up though as talented live music acts often take to the stage too.
Address: Palermo, Niceto Vega 5510, Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 4779 9396
Website: www.nicetoclub.com
Live music in Buenos Aires
- Ciudad Cultural Konex
This uber-cool cultural complex hosts an array of live music nights, but none are as good as La Bomba de Tiempo who bring their amazing and utterly unique percussion act to the stage on Monday nights. Those that miss them will find plenty of dynamic theatre and cutting-edge contemporary art to see too.
Address: Abasto, Sarmiento 3131, Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 4864 3200
Website: www.cckonex.org
- El Viejo Almacén
Established in 1969, El Viejo Almacén is one of Buenos Aires’ longest-standing show venues and can be found in a charming old colonial building in atmospheric San Telmo. Most come for dinner beforehand then cross the road to the small theatre where, on an intimate stage, tango dancers perform with high-octane glitz and glamour.
Address: Av. Independencia 299, AAC Cdad. Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 4307 6689
Website: www.viejoalmacen.com.ar
- Teatro Colón
The refurbished Teatro Colón is home to the Buenos Aires Philharmonic orchestra who often hold free classical music recitals in the Salon Dorado (Gold Room). Tango is the dominant dance here, and shows are always worthy of such a majestic setting. Music lovers will also find incredible operas as well as ballet of the highest standard.
Address: Centro, Cerrito 628, Buenos Aires.
Telephone: +54 11 4378 7100
Website: www.teatrocolon.org.ar
